Growing Grapes in Colorado Gardens: A Comprehensive Guide

Growing grapes in Colorado can be a rewarding experience, whether you’re aiming for fresh table grapes, juice, or even homemade wine. This guide will walk you through the essential steps for successful grape cultivation, from choosing the right cultivars to planting, trellising, pruning, and general care.

Types and Cultivars

Types of Grapes:

  • Table Grapes: Ideal for fresh eating, with popular seedless varieties like Himrod, Interlaken, Canadice, St. Theresa, and Reliance.
  • Juice and Jelly Grapes: Popular cultivars include Concord, Valiant, Niagara, and St. Croix.
  • Wine Grapes
  • Raisin Grapes

Cultivars:

  • American Cultivars (Vitis labrusca): Known for their strong “foxy” (musty) flavor and aroma, these are used for juice, fresh eating, and some wines.
  • European Cultivars (Vitis vinifera): With tight clusters and thin skins, these grapes are used for wines and require more heat units for maturity, making them less suitable for Colorado.
  • French-American Hybrids: Popular for wine, with characteristics that vary depending on parentage.

Planting Grapes

Grapes need full sun and protection from wind. Space plants 6 to 8 feet apart, in rows 6 to 10 feet apart, depending on your trellising system. Strong trellising systems are necessary to support the heavy vines and fruit. Use treated posts and 12-gauge or heavier wire.

Trellising and Pruning

Grapes fruit on one-year-old wood, making pruning a balance between fruit production and renewing wood. Proper pruning is essential for high yields and large clusters of grapes. Unpruned or under-pruned grapes will produce many small clusters of tiny grapes, while over-pruning reduces yield.

Single Curtain System:

  1. Pruning at Planting: Cut back to two to three buds to encourage the growth of a strong primary trunk.
    • Image provided by CSU extension
  2. Second Spring Pruning: Select one cane to become the trunk and remove others, leaving one or two renewal spurs.
    • Image provided by CSU extension
  3. Third Spring Pruning: Select two one-year-old canes to become fruiting canes and cordon arms along the trellis. Prune two other canes back to two buds each to serve as renewal spurs.
    • Image provided by CSU extension
  4. Fourth Spring and Beyond: Continue selecting new fruiting canes and renewal spurs each spring, maintaining the balance between fruit production and new wood growth.
    • Image provided by CSU extension

General Care of Grapes

  • Mulching: Use a four-foot-wide weed-free bark/wood chip mulch strip under the trellis to help retain moisture and reduce weed competition.
  • Watering: Avoid over-watering, as it can lead to iron chlorosis.
  • Fertilization: Go light on fertilization. Apply one-fourth cup of 21-0-0 (or equivalent) per established plant, broadcast under the trellis, and water in.
  • Harvest: Flavor is the best indicator for home gardeners to determine harvest time.

Common Grape Pests

Fruit:

  • Birds: Bird netting may be necessary to protect the fruit.
  • Botrytis Bunch Rot: Often a problem with heavy canopies due to inadequate pruning and poor air circulation.
  • Spotted Wing Drosophila Flies: These can affect ripe grapes.

Plants:

  • Powdery Mildew: Refer to CSU Extension Fact Sheet #2.902 for management.
  • Iron Chlorosis: Typically a symptom of over-watering. Refer to CSU Extension CMG GardenNotes #223 for more information.
  • Root Rots: Poor soil drainage can lead to root rot issues.
  • Weeds and Diseases: Grapes do not tolerate competition well, so adequate control is necessary.

By following these guidelines, you can enjoy a bountiful grape harvest in your Colorado garden. Happy gardening!

For more detailed information, call or visit Echter’s Garden Center or contact your local CSU Extension office.

Growing and Pruning Raspberries in Colorado: A Comprehensive Guide

Raspberries are a delightful addition to any home garden, providing delicious fruit and vibrant foliage. In Colorado, only selected varieties of red and yellow raspberries are recommended due to the state’s unique climate. This guide covers everything from choosing the right varieties to effective pruning techniques, ensuring you enjoy a bountiful raspberry harvest.

Suitable Raspberry Varieties for Colorado

Red and Yellow Raspberries:

  • Best for general cultivation in Colorado.
  • Recommended varieties include summer-bearing types like ‘Nova’ and ‘Boyne,’ and fall-bearing types suitable for the Front Range and Western Slope.

Black Raspberries:

  • Hardy varieties such as Niwot and Pequot can thrive in some Colorado areas.

Other Varieties:

  • Blackberries, purple raspberries, boysenberries, loganberries, and dewberries require special winter protection and are less recommended.

Types of Raspberries

Summer-Bearing (Floricane):

  • Produce flowers and fruit on second-year canes.
  • Fruit once per season.

Fall-Bearing (Primocane or Everbearing):

  • Produce flowers and fruit on first-year canes.
  • Can provide two harvests: one in fall and a lighter one in summer on the lower parts of the canes.
Chart Provided by CSU Extension

Soil Preparation and Planting

Soil Requirements:

  • Well-drained garden soil rich in organic matter.
  • Conduct a soil test to determine nutrient needs, especially nitrogen, zinc, iron, and manganese.

Planting:

  • Plant red and yellow raspberries as rooted suckers in spring.
  • Space plants 2-3 feet apart with rows 5-10 feet apart.
  • Cut tops to 4-6 inches above ground after planting.

Pruning Techniques

Red Raspberries:

  • Can be trained to a single stake or supported by horizontal wires 18” apart.
  • Freestanding canes should be headed back below 4.5 feet to prevent bending.

Black and Purple Raspberries:

  • Less vigorous and pruned heavily.
  • Often left freestanding.

General Pruning Tips:

  • Remove spent floricanes after fruiting to prevent disease.
  • In spring, remove dead, weak, and small canes.
  • For fall-bearing varieties, either mow all canes to ground level after harvest or remove the fruited cane parts, leaving the lower portions for summer fruit.

Trellising and Support

  • Trellising is advisable to keep canes erect and simplify harvesting.
  • Use wires 3 feet above ground to confine canes to the hedge row.
  • Larger fruit can be achieved by tipping canes at a convenient height.

Watering and Fertilization

Watering:

  • Maintain moderate moisture in the root zone.
  • Increase watering during flowering and fruiting periods.
  • Withhold water after the first frost to harden off plants.

Fertilization:

  • Apply nitrogen fertilizer as needed based on soil tests and cane growth.
  • Fall-bearing raspberries require more nitrogen than summer-bearing varieties.

Winter Protection

For Summer-Bearing Varieties:

  • Lay canes down and cover with soil or mulch after November 1.
  • Lift canes in early April and return the soil to the furrow.

For Fall-Bearing Varieties:

  • Mow canes after harvest to avoid winter damage.
  • If a summer crop is desired, protect canes similarly to summer-bearing types.

Yield and Longevity

  • Expect 15-20 pounds of fruit per year from a 25-foot hedge row by the third year.
  • Productivity may decline after 8-10 years, necessitating relocation of the raspberry bed.

Disease and Pest Management

Common Pests:

  • Spider mites, which can be managed by maintaining healthy, well-watered plants.
  • Raspberry cane borers, identified by wilting cane tips, can be controlled by removing affected canes.
  • Spotted wing drosophila, managed through refrigeration, cleanup of dropped fruit, and trapping.

Preventative Measures:

  • Purchase disease-free stock from reputable sources.
  • Regularly thin canes to improve light and air circulation.

By following these guidelines, you can successfully grow and enjoy raspberries in your Colorado garden. For more detailed information and expert advice, contact Echter’s Garden Center or refer to resources from Colorado State University Extension. Happy gardening!

Growing Blueberries: A Comprehensive Guide to Blueberry Care & Culture

Blueberry bushes are an excellent addition to both edible and ornamental landscapes. They not only produce delicious, nutritious fruit but also enhance the garden’s aesthetic with their glossy, deep green leaves in summer and vibrant scarlet foliage in autumn. Here’s how to successfully cultivate blueberries, particularly in regions like the Rocky Mountain West, where soil conditions may pose a challenge.

Essential Growing Conditions

To thrive, blueberries require well-drained, acidic soil (pH 4.5 – 5.5) rich in organic matter. They should be planted in part shade/shade locations and protected from harsh winter winds. Given that naturally acidic soil is rare in the Rocky Mountain region, consider the following methods to create suitable conditions:

  1. Soil Replacement: Remove existing soil from the planting area to a depth of two feet and replace it with a mix of 50% good commercial topsoil and 50% horticultural sphagnum peat moss. Adding extra compost is also beneficial.
  2. Container Planting: Use half a whiskey barrel or a large 20″ plastic pot with additional drainage holes. Fill with the soil mix mentioned above and sink the container into the ground.
  3. Raised Beds: Build a raised bed (3-4 feet wide and 8-12 inches high) using the same specialized soil mix.

Regularly test the soil’s pH using test kits available from Echter’s or other local garden centers.

Plant Care Tips

  • Mulching: Apply a layer of bark chips to conserve moisture, cool the roots, and suppress weeds.
  • Watering: Maintain continuous but moderate moisture throughout the growing season. Avoid over-watering by checking the soil’s top inch for moisture before watering.
  • Fertilization: Annually amend the soil with compost and regularly acidify with products like Ferti-lome Evergreen Food or Miracid. Start fertilizing in May, just before bloom, and continue as directed on the fertilizer label.
  • Pest and Disease Control: Insect problems are rare but can be managed with Malathion if necessary. To prevent fungal issues, water in the early morning and prune correctly.

Bird Control

Birds such as robins, finches, and starlings enjoy blueberries just as much as we do. To protect your crop, cover shrubs with Ross Garden Netting as berries begin to ripen, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Harvest and Storage

Blueberries are harvested from July through September. Store them in a refrigerator at 32-35°F to keep them fresh for 10-14 days. Fresh blueberries freeze well and maintain their taste, texture, and appearance for up to two years when stored at 0°F. Always freeze blueberries unwashed to preserve their natural protective coating. They can also be canned or processed into syrup.

Winter Protection

For best results, protect blueberry bushes during winter:

  • Apply 4-5 inches of bark mulch around the base in late November after the ground freezes. Remove the mulch in April.
  • Water during extended dry periods or when there’s no snow cover.
  • Stop fertilizing by the end of July to allow plants to harden off before winter.

Pruning Guide

Proper pruning is essential for healthy blueberry plants and optimal fruit production:

  • Establishment Years (First Two Years): Remove winter-killed and diseased wood. Prevent fruit setting to aid establishment by rubbing out flower buds in early spring.
  • First Pruning Year: Prune in early spring after the bush has been planted for two seasons. Remove diseased or dead wood and any crossing canes. Keep two or three healthy canes.
  • Second Through Fifth Years: Continue the same process each year, maintaining a goal of 12 healthy canes of different ages by the fifth year.
  • Maintenance Pruning (After Fifth Year): Maintain the bush at 12-15 canes, pruning out the oldest canes annually and leaving two or three new ones.

Pruning, along with proper soil pH, drip irrigation, and mulching, significantly impacts berry size and quality. Annual pruning ensures consistent, high-quality fruit production.

In summary, with the right care and attention, blueberry bushes can be a fruitful and beautiful part of your garden. By following these guidelines, you can enjoy bountiful harvests of delicious, nutritious blueberries year after year.

For more gardening tips and expert advice, visit our website at Echter’s Garden Center or call us at 303-424-7979.

Frost Hardiness

Plants vary in their ability to tolerate cold temperatures and harsh conditions. Different areas in Colorado can have drastically different climates and varying weather conditions each year. All of these factors make it difficult to determine a “safe date” to plant.

We have complied a list of plants ranging from “Very Hardy” to “Tender”. We offer recommendations on planting dates in the Denver area for each group but caution that these dates are approximations. We strongly recommend hardening off your plants (especially annuals) before planting and keeping a close eye on the weather. If needed, covering plants during cold snaps or chilly nights can help protect them.

Very Hardy Plants

Very hardy plants can typically be planted 7 weeks before the average last frost date. In the Denver Metro Area, this is usually after April 1st.

Very Hardy Flowers

Alyssum
Anchusa
Centaurea
Dracaena
Dusty Miller
Larkspur
Pansy
Snapdragon
Sweet Pea
Viola

Very Hardy Vegetables

Asparagus
Fennel
Onions
Peas
Potato
Radish
Strawberries

Hardy Plants

Hardy plants can typically be planted 5 weeks before the average last frost date. In the Denver Metro Area, this is usually after April 20th.

Hardy Flowers

Arctotis
Artemesia
Baby Blue Eyes
Bellis
Calendula
Carnation
Cerastium
Columbine
Dianthus
Diascia
Erysimum
Flowering Kale
Heuchera
Iberis
Lavender
Lenten Rose
Lobelia
Lupine
Matricaria
Myosotis
Nemesia
Osteospermum
Phlox
Roses
Vinca Vine

Hardy Vegetables

Broccoli
Brussels Sprouts
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Kohlrabi
Lettuce
Pak Choi
Perennial Herbs
Radicchio
Rhubarb
Spinach

Half Hardy Plants

Half hardy plants can typically be planted 3 weeks before the average last frost date. In the Denver Metro Area, this is usually after May 1st.

Half Hardy Flowers

Anagallis
Angelonia
Bacopa
Bells of Ireland
Calibrachoa
California Poppy
Campanula
Coreopsis
Cosmos
Datura
Delphinium
Dichondra
Euphorbia
Felicia Daisy
Gazania
Gerbera
Gomphrena
Lotus Vine
Mexican Feather Grass
Ornamental Grasses
Pennisetum
Penstemon
Petunia
Phlox
Pincushion Flower
Regal Geranium
Ruby Grass
Rudbeckia
Sanvitalia
Stocks
Strawflower
Sutera
Sweet Pea
Trifolium
Verbena

Half Hardy Vegetables

Artichoke
Celery
Leek

Tender Plants

Tender plants can be planted when there is no longer danger of frost. In the Denver Metro Area, this is usually after May 20th.

Tender Flowers

Abutilon
Achimenes
Ageratum
Alternanthera
Alternaria
Amaranthus
Angelonia
Argyranthemum
Asparagus Fern
Aster
Banana
Balsam
Begonia
Bidens
Bouganvilla
Bower Vine
Brachycome
Browallia
Brunfelsia
Caladium
Calibrachoa
Calla Lily
Callopsis
Campanula
Canna
Cardinal Climber
Celosia
Chrysanthemum
Chrysocephalum
Cigar Plant
Clematis
Cleome
Coleus
Cordyline
Coreopsis
Crassula
Crossandra
Cuphea
Dahlberg Daisy
Dahlia
Dallas Fern
Daylily
Dipladenia
Elephant Ears
Evolvulus
Ferns
Fiber Optic Grass
Four O’Clock
Fuchsia
Geranium
Gloriosa Lily
Guara
Heliotrope
Hibiscus
Impatiens
Iresene
Iris
Jasmine
Lantana
Lisianthus
Livingstone Daisy
Lothospermum
Lysmachia
Mandevilla
Marguerite Daisy
Marigolds
Mecardonia
Melampodium
Millet
Mimulus
Moon Vine
Monopsis
Morning Glory
Napa Valley Fern
Nasturtium
Nemesia
Nicotiana
Nierembergia
Nolana
Oleander
Oxalis
Pampas Grass
Pentas
Periwinkle
Perilla
Plectranthus
Polka Dot Plant
Polygonum
Portulaca
Rudbeckia
Salpiglopssis
Salvia
Scarlet Runner Bean
Scaevola
Schizanthus
Sedum
Statice
Streptocarpella
Sunflower
Swan River Daisy
Sweet Potato Vine
Tithonia
Thumbergia
Torenia
Trachelium
Trailing Portulaca
Tropical Hibiscus
Tropical Water Plants
Veronica
Vinca
Zinnia

Tender Vegetables

Annual Herbs
Cantaloupe
Corn
Cucumber
Eggplant
Okra
Peanuts
Peppers
Pumpkin
Squash
Tomato
Watermelon

Hardening Off Annuals

HOW TO HARDEN OFF YOUR PLANTS

The gradual process of hardening off is a crucial one, like the slow but steady  way we brace our entry into a chilly lake in summer. Jumping in all at once is a shock to our system, but if we start by sticking a toe in and slowly working our way in, the total immersion is not nearly so stressful.

Plants need a period of time to get used to their new homes.  The adjustment period is called “hardening off.”  We recommend a hardening off period of about three to five days.  This will give the foliage tissue time to toughen up so the plants don’t go into shock.

COLD SPRING WEATHER

1.   Put new plants outside in a place that is protected from sun and wind.  Make sure they get watered as needed.

2.   If nights will be cooler than 38-40 degrees, bring into the garage or house.

3.   Move the plants out a littler farther each day toward the place in which they will be growing.

4.   Leave the plants out at night unless there will be low temperatures.  They still might need covering at night if there is a drastic change in the weather.

5.   Plant on a cloudy day and they will take right off.  Using a root stimulator when planting will help.

WARM SPRING WEATHER

The process above can be sped up, but it is basically the same.

HOT WEATHER

The process here is somewhat different since you are acclimating your plants to hot sun and drying winds.

1.   Put plants in a cool, protected place for a day or two.

2.   Gradually move plants towards their new location over a period of three or four days.

3.   Plant in the cool of the evening or on a cloudy day.

4.   Be prepared to shade with a shingle or board until plants are settled in.

5.   Water as needed.  Always check the soil first.