plants – Echter's Garden Talk

Listening to Your Plants: How Their Leaves Communicate Health and Problems

Houseplants are a wonderful addition to any indoor space, bringing life, color, and even improved air quality into our homes. However, like any living organism, plants can face challenges that affect their health and vitality. One of the first signs of trouble usually appears in their leaves. Being attuned to these signals can help you catch and address issues early, ensuring your plant remains healthy and happy. In this blog post, we’ll explore common houseplant problems — such as watering issues, improper lighting, and pests — and how they manifest through the plant’s foliage.

Overwatering
One of the most common issues houseplant owners face is overwatering. Plants need water, but too much can lead to a range of problems that typically show up first in the leaves. The most telling sign of overwatering is yellowing leaves. If you notice that your plant’s leaves are turning yellow, especially the lower leaves, it might be an indication that the roots are sitting in waterlogged soil. Overwatered roots can begin to suffocate, causing root rot, which prevents the plant from absorbing nutrients properly.

Other signs include limp, mushy leaves or stems, and sometimes an unpleasant odor from the soil. To prevent overwatering, ensure your pot has proper drainage, and allow the top couple of inches of soil to dry out between waterings. If you suspect overwatering, remove the plant from its pot to inspect the roots. If you find mushy, brown, or black roots, it’s time to prune the damaged roots and repot the plant in fresh, well-draining soil.

Underwatering
On the flip side, underwatering is another common culprit behind unhappy foliage. The most noticeable sign of this issue is wilting. If your plant’s leaves appear limp, shriveled, or dry to the touch, it’s likely not receiving enough water. This is particularly common in plants with thin leaves, like ferns, which need consistent moisture.

Crispy leaf edges, browning tips, and curling are also indications of underwatering. Unlike overwatered plants, underwatered plants will often look droopy and feel light when you pick up the pot. The solution here is simple—give the plant a good soak, ensuring that water drains out the bottom. Going forward, try to keep the soil consistently moist without letting it dry out completely between waterings. However, avoid letting the plant sit in water, which could lead to overcompensation and result in overwatering.

Too Much Light
Light is essential for a plant’s growth, but too much light can cause damage. One of the key indicators of excessive light exposure is scorched leaves. These leaves will appear faded or washed out in color, sometimes with brown, crispy patches, particularly on the side of the plant facing the light source. If you notice that your plant’s leaves are bleaching or developing burn spots, it’s a good sign that the light is too intense.

Plants that receive too much direct sunlight may also show signs of heat stress, such as curling or drooping leaves. To remedy this, try moving the plant to a spot with indirect light or provide a sheer curtain to diffuse the sunlight. Some plants, like succulents, can tolerate (and even thrive) in bright light, but many houseplants prefer medium to low light conditions.

Not Enough Light
Conversely, not enough light can also cause problems. Plants that aren’t getting enough light will often develop pale, yellowish leaves, and growth may become leggy as the plant stretches towards the light source. The leaves may also be smaller and spaced farther apart on the stem, indicating that the plant is not producing enough energy to sustain healthy, compact growth.

If you suspect your plant is suffering from insufficient light, try moving it to a brighter location or consider supplementing with a grow light. Different plants have varying light needs, so make sure you’re providing the right conditions for your specific plant species.

What’s Bugging Your Plant?
Pests are another common issue that houseplant owners face, and they often show up on the leaves. Common pests like spider mites, aphids, mealybugs, and scale can cause damage that includes speckled or mottled leaves, sticky residue (from aphid honeydew), and stunted growth. Spider mites, in particular, leave tiny yellow spots or a fine webbing on the undersides of leaves. Mealybugs look like small white cottony masses, often found in leaf joints, while scale insects appear as small brown bumps.

If you notice any of these signs, isolate the plant from others to prevent the pests from spreading. Insecticidal soap, neem oil, or wiping the leaves with rubbing alcohol can often help eliminate infestations, but be persistent—pests can be stubborn.

What Indicates a Happy Plant?
On the brighter side, recognizing signs of a healthy, happy plant is equally important. Healthy foliage is typically vibrant and firm, with good color (depending on the species) and no signs of yellowing, browning, or crispness. New growth is another positive sign. If your plant is regularly producing new leaves, it’s a good indication that it’s thriving. Additionally, the leaves will feel supple and strong, with no signs of drooping or wilting.

Plants that are in the right environment—receiving the proper amount of light, water, and nutrients—will grow steadily and without signs of distress. A happy plant will also have healthy roots that are white or light tan in color and firm to the touch.

Your houseplant’s leaves are like its communication system, offering clues about its overall health. By paying close attention to the condition of the leaves, you can quickly spot signs of overwatering, underwatering, light issues, or pests and take action to correct the problem. With a little care and observation, you can keep your houseplants looking lush and vibrant, ensuring they continue to thrive in your home for years to come.

Understanding Japanese Beetles in Your Garden

If you’re a gardener in Colorado, chances are you’ve encountered the voracious appetite of Japanese beetles wreaking havoc on your plants. These metallic green and copper-colored pests are more than just a nuisance. They can quickly decimate a garden if left unchecked. Let’s dive into what makes these beetles such a challenge for gardeners and how you can manage them effectively.

Identifying Japanese Beetles
Japanese beetles (Popillia japonica) are easily recognizable by their distinctive coloring: metallic green bodies with copper-brown wing covers. They are about half an inch long and have small white tufts of hair along their sides, which can sometimes resemble spots.

You’ll often find them congregating in groups on plants, particularly those with large leaves like roses, linden trees, and grapes.

Damage Caused by Japanese Beetles
These beetles are not picky eaters — they’re indiscriminate feeders. Their known diet includes over 300 plants. They chew through leaves, flowers, and even fruits, leaving behind skeletonized foliage that can quickly turn your once-vibrant garden into a ragged mess. Their feeding habits can weaken plants and make them more susceptible to other stressors, potentially leading to plant death in severe infestations.

Life Cycle of Japanese Beetles
Understanding the life cycle of Japanese beetles is crucial for effective management. They have a one-year life cycle that begins with eggs laid in the soil during mid-summer. These eggs hatch into grubs that feed on grass roots, causing damage to lawns and other grassy areas. By late spring of the following year, the grubs pupate and emerge as adult beetles, typically around June in Colorado.

Grub Stage Damage: Grubs feed on grassroots, which can lead to brown patches in lawns and weakened turf that easily pulls up like a loose carpet.
Adult Stage Damage: Adult beetles emerge and feed on foliage, flowers, and fruits, causing visible damage within days.

Protecting Your Landscape
Managing Japanese beetles requires a multi-pronged approach that addresses the damage they cause at each stage of their life cycle.

In the grub stage

Beetles will be burrowed into your lawn. There are a number of products available that target grubs in lawns and have proven to be effective against Japanese Beetles.

Products like Milky Spore (a bacterial disease of grubs), beneficial nematodes (parasitic organisms that target grubs), and grub control products such as GrubGONE! or GrubEX! can help reduce grub populations in the soil without harming beneficial insects.

Milky Spore (Paenibacillus popillae) is an organic product that is easy to use and will protect your landscape for the next ten years. It is a spore that affects Japanese Beetle grubs and nothing else! Yes, you read that right. It will not harm anything else in your garden. That means it can safely be used in the lawn, in the vegetable garden, and throughout your landscape. (Note: Expect this product to develop over time. It takes 3-4 years to build up enough of the spore disease to be noticeably effective)

Beneficial Nematodes (Heterorhabditis bacteriophora) seek out and kill all stages of harmful soil-dwelling insects — including Japanese Beetles. They are tiny worms found in soil that target young stages of pest insects, like larvae, grubs, nymphs, and pupae. They are a natural and effective alternative to chemical pesticides, and have no detrimental effect on non-target species such as ladybugs, earthworms and other helpful garden insects. Releasing the nematodes into your garden is a simple process. They are sold in an easy-release powder that dissolves quickly with water. For application, you can opt for a standard watering can or use a hose-end sprayer or pump sprayer to apply.

GrubGONE! is a natural and effective product with the main ingredient being Btg (Bacillus thuringiensis galleriae). Commonly found in nature, these bacteria can live and multiply within the bodies of insects, and produce spores and protein crystal toxins which can result in death of the insect host. It is a granular which should be applied in the spring, and then again in mid- to late summer when adult beetles will re-enter the turf to lay eggs and overwinter.

GrubEX! is a granular pesticide (Chlorantraniliprole 0.08%) that should be applied in spring or early summer. A single application can prevent grubs of all kinds from damaging your lawn all season long, especially killing the Japanese Beetle larvae (grubs) so they never get the chance to develop into adults.

In the adult beetle stage

Japanese beetles will be actively flying and feeding on plant material in your landscape. A number of strategies can be employed to mitigate damage and get rid of the adult beetles.

Handpicking adult beetles can sometimes be effectively employed in small plantings. The beetles are easily picked or dislodged; shaking infested plants over a collecting container in early morning when temperatures are cool can be particularly productive. It is best to physically remove them from your plants with a gloved hand, but don’t squish them! Squished bugs emit pheromones, which end up attracting more beetles. Take the captured beetles and toss them in a bucket of soapy water.

BeetleGONE! is the first Bacillus thuringiensis galleriae (Btg) bio-insecticide to control adult beetles (plus the larvae or turf grubs) at a level of efficacy equivalent to chemical standards, but without the side effects or off-target damage to beneficial insects and pollinators. Unlike other biological or chemical grub-control products, BeetleGONE! can be used as a curative treatment for grub control as well as a preventative treatment. It works by making the foliage inedible to the beetles. This is a powder that you mix with water to apply. (Should be reapplied every 7-10 days)

Beetle traps, which use pheromones to attract beetles into a bag or container, can be controversial. While they can capture large numbers of beetles, they might also attract more beetles to your yard. If you choose to use traps, place them at least 30 feet away from your garden to draw beetles away from rather than into your plants.

Dealing with Japanese beetles requires vigilance and a strategic approach. By understanding their life cycle, identifying their damage, and employing a combination of cultural, biological, and if necessary, chemical controls, you can protect your garden from these invasive pests. Experiment with different methods to find what works best for your specific garden environment and remember to always follow product instructions carefully.

By taking proactive steps, being persistent, and staying informed, you can keep your garden thriving and beautiful, even in the face of challenges posed by Japanese beetles.

For a more detailed look at Japanese Beetles and possible controls, check out this informative fact sheet from the Colorado State University Extension:
Japanese Beetle Fact Sheet by Dr. Whitney Cranshaw

Protecting Your Vegetable Garden from Rabbit Damage: Effective Strategies for Colorado Gardeners

They’re furry, they’re cute, and in the garden … they’re a real problem! These critters can be one of a gardener’s most despised pests, capable of wiping out entire crops overnight. They seem to have an insatiable appetite for young, tender shoots and leaves, which makes a vegetable garden one of their favorite targets.

Rabbits are attracted to a wide variety of plants, especially in the early spring when tender new growth is abundant. They can quickly decimate rows of lettuce, spinach, carrots, and they’ll even nibble on fruiting plants like tomatoes and peppers. Their feeding habits not only stunt plant growth but can also leave plants vulnerable to diseases and pests.

Protecting your vegetable garden from rabbit damage requires a combination of strategies tailored to your specific garden layout and local rabbit population. While physical barriers like fencing are among the most effective methods, integrating natural repellents, strategic planting, and vigilant maintenance can significantly enhance your garden’s defenses against these persistent pests.

SIGNS OF RABBITS IN THE GARDEN
If you suspect these furry marauders may be visiting your garden, there are a few ways to detect their presence. If you see your plants completely disappear overnight — especially when they’re young tender shoots such as peas, Swiss chard, or pepper seedlings — it’s a pretty good bet that rabbits are responsible. Look for their pea-sized droppings, tufts of hair on fences, and spots that look like a small animal may have been digging. You’ll find plant damage that looks like it’s been trimmed with pruners rather than nibbled or chewed. Rabbits have both upper and lower incisors, so when they feed, they create a clean cut.

There are a number of strategies that can be employed to discourage rabbits and make your veggie garden a much less attractive buffet option. Many gardeners have found one, or a combination of several, of the strategies below worked for them.

CREATING PHYSICAL BARRIERS
One of the most reliable and effective ways to protect your vegetable garden from rabbits is by using physical barriers like fencing.

A sturdy fence around your garden perimeter, preferably made of hardware cloth or chicken wire with holes no larger than 1 inch, can effectively keep rabbits out. Make sure the fence is at least 2 feet high to keep rabbits from jumping over, and you’ll need to extend fencing at least 6 inches below ground to prevent them from burrowing under.

For individual plants or smaller areas, construct barriers from chicken wire or hardware cloth to form cylinders around each plant. Planting small crops like lettuce in a hanging basket is another creative way to put them safely out of reach of the local rabbit population.

Raised beds (if they’re at least 2 feet high) can be another effective way to lift enticing plants off the ground and keep them out of sight and out of reach for rabbits.

TRY INTIMIDATING OBJECTS
Rabbits may feel less welcome in your garden if they think there are predators nearby. Try placing artificial snakes or owls within sight of favorite vegetable crops to discourage rabbits.

Moving objects like pinwheels may help deter a rabbit. Try motion activated sprinklers that will spray when rabbits hop by. Whatever objects you try, be sure to move them around to different places in the garden now and then, or swap them out for new and unfamiliar objects.

SMART GARDEN DESIGN & PLANT SELECTION
Another helpful strategy is to plan your garden with rabbit-resistant plants in mind. While no plant is completely rabbit-proof, some are far less appealing to rabbits than others. Try interplanting susceptible crops with more rabbit-resistant plants to confuse their noses and discourage them from feasting on your prized vegetables.

Rabbits will tend to stay away from plants that have a pungent scent, so planting highly-aromatic herbs such as rosemary, mint, thyme, and sage will act as a deterrent. The same is true for anything in the onion family: chives, onions, garlic, allium, etc., tend to act as a natural repellent.

TRY RABBIT REPELLENTS
Some gardeners swear by repellents to deter rabbits. Rabbit repellents work either by releasing an unpleasant odor or by making desirable plants taste bad.

I Must Garden’s rabbit repellent is a spray which combines both of these strategies, and is biodegradable and completely safe for people, pets, and the environment. Bonide’s Go Away Deer & Rabbit Repellent works by using strong scents combined with white pepper (rabbits don’t like anything spicy!) which works as an irritant without causing harm.

While these methods can be effective, they will need to be reapplied after rain or irrigation, and their effectiveness can vary based on local rabbit populations. It’s always a good idea to alternate repellents so that rabbits do not get used to any scent or flavor. Rabbits do most of their feeding in the evening and into the night, so to be most effective, you’ll want to apply deterrents at the end of the day.

MAINTENANCE AND MONITORING
Regular garden maintenance is crucial in deterring rabbits. Keep your garden tidy by removing weeds, tall grasses, and any debris where rabbits might hide or nest. Check your fences and barriers regularly for any signs of damage or places where rabbits might be able to squeeze through.

By implementing these strategies and staying proactive throughout the growing season, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest of vegetables without sharing it all with the local rabbit population.

Exploring the Beauty and Function of Water Garden Plants

Creating a beautiful and thriving water garden involves more than just placing plants in water — it’s about understanding the roles each type of aquatic plant plays in maintaining a balanced pond ecosystem. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out, understanding the different types of water plants and their roles can significantly enhance your pond’s health and beauty.

There are three main categories of aquatic plants: submerged, emergent, and floating. Each plays a vital role in maintaining water quality and supporting aquatic life. Incorporating a variety of these different types of plants not only enhances the visual appeal of your water garden but also plays a crucial role in maintaining its health. They are your allies in achieving a balanced and beautiful water garden. The key to a successful aquatic garden lies in understanding and harnessing the natural benefits of each type of aquatic plant.

Submerged Plants: Oxygenating Powerhouses

Submerged plants play a crucial role in maintaining water clarity and quality by oxygenating. They grow entirely underwater, with their leaves and stems providing habitats for aquatic organisms. These plants not only oxygenate the water but also absorb excess nutrients, helping to prevent algae overgrowth.

Examples include Anacharis (Egeria densa) a popular choice for its rapid growth and ability to absorb excess nutrients; and Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum) known for its bushy appearance and effective nutrient uptake.

Emergent Plants: Nature’s Filtration System

Emergent plants grow with their roots underwater but their stems and foliage above the water surface. They play a crucial role in providing habitat, shade, and filtration. Their upright growth adds vertical interest to your pond and offers shelter for fish and amphibians.

Popular choices for emergent pond plants include Water Lilies (Nymphaea spp.), famous for their beautiful blooms and large floating leaves that provide shade and habitat for aquatic creatures. Pickerel Weed (Pontederia cordata) features spikes of blue flowers above glossy green leaves and is ideal for shallow areas of the pond.

Floating Plants: Shade and Nutrient Control

Floating plants rest on the water’s surface without being anchored to the pond bed. They are excellent natural filters, shading the water and reducing sunlight penetration, which helps control algae growth. These plants are also prized for their ability to quickly cover the surface, reducing evaporation and providing hiding places for fish.

Water Hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes) and Water Lettuce (Pistia stratiotes) are both popular choices. Water Hyacinths are admired for their exquisite colorful blooms and broad leaves, while Water Lettuce forms dense mats of bright green that provide shade and shelter for fish.

When selecting aquatic plants, consider the specific conditions of your pond—such as water depth, sunlight exposure, and desired aesthetic—and choose plants accordingly. With proper planning and maintenance, your aquatic garden will flourish, providing enjoyment for both you and the diverse aquatic life it supports.

Growing and Pruning Raspberries in Colorado: A Comprehensive Guide

Raspberries are a delightful addition to any home garden, providing delicious fruit and vibrant foliage. In Colorado, only selected varieties of red and yellow raspberries are recommended due to the state’s unique climate. This guide covers everything from choosing the right varieties to effective pruning techniques, ensuring you enjoy a bountiful raspberry harvest.

Suitable Raspberry Varieties for Colorado

Red and Yellow Raspberries:

Best for general cultivation in Colorado.
Recommended varieties include summer-bearing types like ‘Nova’ and ‘Boyne,’ and fall-bearing types suitable for the Front Range and Western Slope.

Black Raspberries:

Hardy varieties such as Niwot and Pequot can thrive in some Colorado areas.

Other Varieties:

Blackberries, purple raspberries, boysenberries, loganberries, and dewberries require special winter protection and are less recommended.

Types of Raspberries

Summer-Bearing (Floricane):

Produce flowers and fruit on second-year canes.
Fruit once per season.

Fall-Bearing (Primocane or Everbearing):

Produce flowers and fruit on first-year canes.
Can provide two harvests: one in fall and a lighter one in summer on the lower parts of the canes.

Soil Preparation and Planting

Soil Requirements:

Well-drained garden soil rich in organic matter.
Conduct a soil test to determine nutrient needs, especially nitrogen, zinc, iron, and manganese.

Planting:

Plant red and yellow raspberries as rooted suckers in spring.
Space plants 2-3 feet apart with rows 5-10 feet apart.
Cut tops to 4-6 inches above ground after planting.

Pruning Techniques

Red Raspberries:

Can be trained to a single stake or supported by horizontal wires 18” apart.
Freestanding canes should be headed back below 4.5 feet to prevent bending.

Black and Purple Raspberries:

Less vigorous and pruned heavily.
Often left freestanding.

General Pruning Tips:

Remove spent floricanes after fruiting to prevent disease.
In spring, remove dead, weak, and small canes.
For fall-bearing varieties, either mow all canes to ground level after harvest or remove the fruited cane parts, leaving the lower portions for summer fruit.

Trellising and Support

Trellising is advisable to keep canes erect and simplify harvesting.
Use wires 3 feet above ground to confine canes to the hedge row.
Larger fruit can be achieved by tipping canes at a convenient height.

Watering and Fertilization

Watering:

Maintain moderate moisture in the root zone.
Increase watering during flowering and fruiting periods.
Withhold water after the first frost to harden off plants.

Fertilization:

Apply nitrogen fertilizer as needed based on soil tests and cane growth.
Fall-bearing raspberries require more nitrogen than summer-bearing varieties.

Winter Protection

For Summer-Bearing Varieties:

Lay canes down and cover with soil or mulch after November 1.
Lift canes in early April and return the soil to the furrow.

For Fall-Bearing Varieties:

Mow canes after harvest to avoid winter damage.
If a summer crop is desired, protect canes similarly to summer-bearing types.

Yield and Longevity

Expect 15-20 pounds of fruit per year from a 25-foot hedge row by the third year.
Productivity may decline after 8-10 years, necessitating relocation of the raspberry bed.

Disease and Pest Management

Common Pests:

Spider mites, which can be managed by maintaining healthy, well-watered plants.
Raspberry cane borers, identified by wilting cane tips, can be controlled by removing affected canes.
Spotted wing drosophila, managed through refrigeration, cleanup of dropped fruit, and trapping.

Preventative Measures:

Purchase disease-free stock from reputable sources.
Regularly thin canes to improve light and air circulation.

By following these guidelines, you can successfully grow and enjoy raspberries in your Colorado garden. For more detailed information and expert advice, contact Echter’s Garden Center or refer to resources from Colorado State University Extension. Happy gardening!

Exploring Ornamental Grasses for Colorado Gardens

Ornamental grasses offer a beautiful and low-maintenance option for adding texture, movement, and color to our gardens. Here are five of our favorites and why we love them for Colorado gardens.

Karl Foerster Grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’)

A timeless favorite among gardeners for its elegant, upright growth habit and feathery plumes that sway gracefully in the breeze. This cool-season grass is well-suited to Colorado’s climate, thriving in full sun to partial shade and well-drained soil. Its drought tolerance and low-maintenance requirements make it an excellent choice for busy gardeners. Karl Foerster Grass adds vertical interest to garden beds, provides winter interest with its golden-hued foliage, and serves as a lovely backdrop for flowering perennials. Its adaptability to various soil types and its resistance to pests and diseases further enhance its appeal for Colorado landscapes.

Elijah Blue Fescue
(Festuca glauca ‘Elijah Blue’)

Prized for its striking blue foliage, Elijah Blue adds a cool, soothing contrast to warmer-hued plants in the garden. This compact, clump-forming grass is well-suited to Colorado’s high-altitude gardens, where it thrives in full sun and well-drained, sandy soils. Its drought tolerance and deer resistance make it a practical choice for low-maintenance landscapes. Elijah Blue Fescue is ideal for edging pathways, rock gardens, or containers, where its unique coloration can be appreciated up close. Colorado gardeners seeking a pop of color and texture will find Elijah Blue Fescue to be a valuable addition to their gardens.

Mexican Feather Grass (Nassella tenuissima)

Graceful and ethereal, this delicate grass captivates with its feather-like foliage and airy swaying movement in the breeze. This warm-season grass thrives in Colorado’s sunny, dry conditions and is well-adapted to poor, rocky soils. Its fine texture and graceful form make it a versatile addition to both formal and informal garden settings. Mexican Feather Grass pairs beautifully with drought-tolerant perennials and succulents, creating a naturalistic, drought-tolerant landscape.

Standing Ovation
Little Blue Stem Grass
Schizachyrium scoparium

This popular selection celebrates the beauty of native grasses with its slender, upright stems and striking blue-green foliage that turns shades of bronze, purple, and red in the fall. This warm-season grass is well-suited to Colorado’s dry, sunny conditions and is tolerant of a wide range of soil types, including clay and sandy soils. Its compact size and drought tolerance make it a valuable addition to water-wise landscapes, where it provides habitat and food for birds and beneficial insects. Standing Ovation shines in naturalistic plantings, meadow gardens, or as a focal point in mixed borders, where its ever-changing colors offer year-round interest.

Golden Hakone Grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’)

This gorgeous perennial grass brings a touch of elegance to shaded areas of the garden with its cascading mounds of golden-yellow foliage that brighten even the darkest corners. It’s a cool-season grass that prefers partial to full shade and moist, well-drained soil, making it an excellent choice for gardens with dappled sunlight or filtered shade. Its graceful, arching habit adds movement and texture to woodland gardens, shady borders, or container plantings. Golden Hakone pairs beautifully with ferns, hostas, and other shade-loving perennials, creating a lush tapestry of colors and textures. While it may require supplemental watering during periods of drought, its low maintenance needs and stunning foliage make it a worthwhile addition to any Colorado garden.

Ornamental grasses offer an array of textures, colors, and forms that can enhance the beauty and functionality of Colorado gardens. From the classic elegance of Karl Foerster Grass to the ethereal charm of Mexican Feather Grass, there’s a grass to suit every taste and garden style.

Whether you’re looking to add vertical interest, vibrant color, or graceful movement to your landscape, these five ornamental grasses are sure to delight Colorado gardeners with their beauty and resilience. So why not consider adding one—or more—of these grasses to your garden this season? Your landscape will thank you for it!

Blossoming Beauties: 5 Summer Annuals for Your Sunny Colorado Garden

Are you ready to add a burst of vibrant color and charm to your sunny Colorado garden this summer? Look no further than these five popular annuals, each handpicked to thrive in the sunshine and liven up your outdoor space. From bold hues to delicate petals, these summer stars are sure to dazzle your senses all season long.

Zinnias
(Zinnia elegans)

Zinnias are the epitome of summer cheer, boasting a rainbow of hues ranging from fiery reds to sunny yellows and soft pinks. These hardy annuals thrive in full sun and well-drained soil, making them a perfect choice for beds, borders, and containers. One of the best features of zinnias is their long-lasting blooms, which attract butterflies and pollinators, adding life and movement to your garden. Whether you opt for compact varieties like ‘Profusion‘ or towering giants like ‘State Fair,’ zinnias are sure to steal the summer show with their vibrant colors and effortless charm.

Marigolds
(Tagetes spp.)

Marigolds are beloved for their cheerful blooms and pest-repelling properties, making them a must-have for any summer garden. These sun-loving annuals come in a variety of sizes and colors, from compact orange ‘French Marigolds‘ to tall and stately ‘African Marigolds.’ Not only do they add a bright pop of color to your garden, but they also help deter pests like aphids and nematodes, making them excellent companions for vegetables and other plants. Plus, their spicy fragrance adds an extra layer of charm to your outdoor space, making them a favorite among gardeners and pollinators alike.

Cosmos
(Cosmos bipinnatus)

If you’re looking for a carefree and whimsical addition to your garden, look no further than cosmos. These dainty annuals boast delicate, fern-like foliage and an abundance of daisy-like flowers that dance atop slender stems. Cosmos thrive in full sun and poor soil, making them an ideal choice for Colorado’s challenging growing conditions. Whether you choose classic white ‘Sensation‘ or vibrant ‘Sonata Red Shades,’ cosmos are sure to add a touch of ethereal beauty to your garden while attracting butterflies and beneficial insects.

Petunias
(Petunia x hybrida)

Beloved by gardeners for their vibrant colors and versatility, they will thrive in Colorado’s summer temperatures. With hues ranging from delicate pastels to bold jewel tones, these annual flowers add a burst of color to any garden or container. They are low-maintenance, requiring only ample sunlight and well-drained soil to flourish. Their cascading habit makes them perfect for hanging baskets, while compact varieties are ideal for borders and edging. Additionally, petunias attract pollinators like butterflies and hummingbirds, enhancing biodiversity in the garden. With their long-lasting blooms and easy care, it’s no wonder these vibrant plants remain a staple for Colorado gardeners seeking plenty of bright summer colors.

Verbena
(Verbena x hybrida)

For cascading color and continuous blooms all summer long, look no further than verbena. These trailing annuals are perfect for hanging baskets, containers, or spilling over the edges of beds and borders. Verbena’s clusters of tiny flowers come in a range of shades, from soft pastels to vibrant jewel tones, attracting butterflies and hummingbirds to your garden. Plus, verbena is heat and drought tolerant, making it an excellent choice for our sunny and arid climate.

These five popular low-maintenance annuals are sure to add beauty, color, and pollinator-friendly blooms to your summer garden. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out, these versatile plants are guaranteed to thrive and bring joy to your outdoor space all season long.

Hardening Off Annuals

HOW TO HARDEN OFF YOUR PLANTS

The gradual process of hardening off is a crucial one, like the slow but steady way we brace our entry into a chilly lake in summer. Jumping in all at once is a shock to our system, but if we start by sticking a toe in and slowly working our way in, the total immersion is not nearly so stressful.

Plants need a period of time to get used to their new homes. The adjustment period is called “hardening off.” We recommend a hardening off period of about three to five days. This will give the foliage tissue time to toughen up so the plants don’t go into shock.

COLD SPRING WEATHER

1. Put new plants outside in a place that is protected from sun and wind. Make sure they get watered as needed.

2. If nights will be cooler than 38-40 degrees, bring into the garage or house.

3. Move the plants out a littler farther each day toward the place in which they will be growing.

4. Leave the plants out at night unless there will be low temperatures. They still might need covering at night if there is a drastic change in the weather.

5. Plant on a cloudy day and they will take right off. Using a root stimulator when planting will help.

WARM SPRING WEATHER

The process above can be sped up, but it is basically the same.

HOT WEATHER

The process here is somewhat different since you are acclimating your plants to hot sun and drying winds.

1. Put plants in a cool, protected place for a day or two.

2. Gradually move plants towards their new location over a period of three or four days.

3. Plant in the cool of the evening or on a cloudy day.

4. Be prepared to shade with a shingle or board until plants are settled in.

5. Water as needed. Always check the soil first.

Nurturing Houseplants in Winter

Now that our doors and windows are closed for the winter, houseplants provide a welcome splash of life and color in our indoor landscape.

Fresh, vibrant, and green, those innocent looking houseplants contribute much more than just a touch of color though. They play a significant role in keeping stale, recirculated air clean. Plants create fresh oxygen, filter dangerous toxins out of the air, and add a bit of fresh air to any room they live in. For the most part, houseplants are pretty easy to care for, but the winter season can present some special challenges for them. Here are a few quick tips to make your indoor garden a successful one.

BUMP UP THE AVAILABLE LIGHT
Adequate light is one of the most important environmental factors in successfully growing plants indoors. Too little light may make your plant leggy with spindly new growth. Let your plants receive as much light as possible during the darker winter days. As the angle of the sun changes and the days get shorter, you may want to rearrange your plants to ensure they’re getting sufficient light in the winter months.

If you don’t have a sunny windowsill to house your indoor garden, grow lights can be especially useful. The proper lighting can supplement sunlight, or replace it entirely in the winter! Echter’s carries everything from full-spectrum bulbs to fluorescent grow tubes that fit in standard fixtures. Add some digital timers, and getting enough hours of light for your houseplants becomes effortless!

CHOOSE PLANT LOCATIONS CAREFULLY
Place your plants well away from winter’s chill. Don’t put them near entry doors where they will be exposed to cold drafts. Make sure the leaves of your plants living in window areas don’t actually touch the window. Minimize exposing plants to temperature extremes by placing them well away from your heating system’s air vents and also away from your fireplace.

DECREASE WATER & FOOD
Remember that indoor plants need less water & fertilizer during the short days of winter. Shorter days mean less growth, so you’ll want to water only when your plants require it.

Overwatering is the number one killer of houseplants! Frequent watering forces air from the soil and opens the door for root-killing bacteria and fungus to move in. Surface soil can dry out more quickly during winter months, but that’s not a good indicator that the plant needs water. Push your finger into the soil to determine if it is dry an inch or two below the surface—that’s when it’s time to bring out the watering can. Avoid shocking your plants’ roots by using room-temperature water in the winter. Use fertilizer at half strength every other time you water until about mid-March.

INCREASE THE HUMIDITY
Houseplants will benefit from added humidity. Humidifiers are great, but you can also use a simple-to-make pebble tray. Take an oversized saucer, add pebbles, and fill halfway with water. Then place your plant on the pebbles. As the water evaporates, add more, but don’t let the plant sit in water.

KEEP A SHARP EYE
OUT FOR PESTS
Dry air in our winter-warm homes can create a favorable environment for pests. Keep a close eye on your plants’ leaves for signs of problems. Periodically check your plants with a magnifying glass.

Thoroughly check the undersides of leaves, stems, and branch axils. Look for common plant pests such as spider mites, mealybugs, whiteflies, & fungus gnats. Spotting problems and responding to them early can keep populations from exploding.

Just as winter is a season of rest for the outdoor garden (and the gardener!), consider it an off season for your houseplants, and give them a season of rest too. Give them the essentials, but leave things like repotting and propagation until spring when your plants begin growing actively again. Next spring, after a long winter’s nap, your plants will be ready to get growing again!

Beat the Heat in the Summer Garden!

We’ve experienced some very warm weather this last week, and it looks like there is going to be more of it next week! Some of your plants may be showing signs of heat stress. Leaves may wilt. Vegetables like lettuce and spinach may bolt (flower prematurely) or in the case of plants you want to blossom, like peppers or watermelon, they may drop blossoms, reducing yield. Here are a few tips to help your garden withstand the hottest part of the summer.

Watch Your Plants
Plants will often tell you when they are needing water. Lawns will turn a bluish green and show footprints that don’t rebound. Bean leaves will turn a darker green and begin to wilt. Most plants will perform better if you don’t allow them to wilt before watering, so check your garden every day and observe their needs.

Water When Necessary
It’s true that you need to water more often during hot weather, but first check the soil. The surface may look dry even though there is plenty of moisture in the root zone. Over-watering can be just as harmful as under-watering, so don’t over do it. Slow, deep watering will ensure that water soaks down to the roots. Soaker hoses and drip irrigation systems work well. If using a hose that has been laying in the sun, be sure to let it run for a minute or two, until cool water comes out.

Mulch to Keep
Things Cool!
A couple of inches of organic mulch like compost, grass clippings, or bark mulch will help reduce moisture loss as well as cool the soil temperature. A side benefit is that it prevents most weeds from germinating, too!

Shade
Cover cool-weather veggies like lettuce and spinach with shade cloth. It won’t totally prevent bolting, but it might delay it a bit. Also, raise your lawn mower blade up so that you have 3 inches of grass left standing after you mow. This will provide shade for the roots of your lawn keeping them cool and much happier (which means a greener lawn).

Don’t Spray Chemicals
During Heat
Avoid spraying garden chemicals when temperatures are above 85 degrees. Weed killers can volatilize (evaporate and become air borne) and drift onto desirable plants. Insecticides can burn leaves of plants when temps are above 85. Spray early in the morning when temps are cooler and the air is still, or wait.

Summer is just getting started! With a little extra attention and a little extra know-how, your garden can come through this summer’s heat waves with flying colors, and keep right on blooming!