Tag: Trees

The Resilient Tree: Why Late-Summer Crispy Leaves Aren’t a Dealbreaker

As the heat of the summer starts to wane and the cool breeze of autumn begins to hint at its arrival, many gardeners find themselves drawn to the garden center, seeking new additions to their landscapes. However, one common sight that might give pause is a tree with crispy, dry leaves. While it might seem like a sign of distress, it’s important to understand what causes this condition and why a tree with crispy leaves might still be a great purchase.

Why Do Trees Get Crispy Leaves?
In Colorado, our summers can be particularly harsh on trees, especially those that are still in nursery pots. These pots can limit the root system’s access to water, and combined with intense sunlight and high temperatures, it’s no surprise that some trees may develop crispy leaves.

The primary culprit is often water stress. In a pot, even the most diligent watering might not keep up with the tree’s needs during the peak of summer. The roots can only pull from the limited soil available, and if that soil dries out too quickly, the leaves can suffer. However, while crispy leaves may look unattractive, they don’t necessarily indicate a sick tree. In most cases, the tree itself remains healthy and ready to thrive once planted in the ground.

Choosing a Tree in Late Summer
When selecting a tree with crispy leaves, it’s essential to look beyond the foliage. Check the trunk and branches for signs of health. The bark should be firm, without any cracks or peeling. Gently scratch a small area of the bark with your fingernail; if you see green beneath, the tree is alive and well. Also, inspect the roots if possible. Healthy roots are white or light brown and flexible, not mushy or brittle.

Late summer and early autumn are excellent times to plant trees in Colorado. The soil is still warm from the summer, which encourages root growth, but the air temperatures are cooler, reducing the stress on the tree. Additionally, many garden centers offer discounts on their remaining stock, allowing you to purchase high-quality trees at a fraction of the cost.

Watering Needs of Newly-Planted Trees
Watering is the most critical factor in the success of a newly-planted tree. Once your tree is in the ground, it’s essential to keep the root zone consistently moist. Water deeply, ensuring that the moisture reaches the full depth of the root ball and into the surrounding soil. In the first few weeks after planting, you may need to water every few days, depending on the weather.

As the tree establishes, you can gradually reduce the frequency of watering, but continue to water deeply. In Colorado, it’s also a good idea to water your trees during dry spells in winter. Even when the tree is dormant, its roots need moisture to survive.

Tips for Caring for Your New Tree
In addition to proper watering, mulching around the base of the tree can help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature. Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch, but keep it a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot. Pruning is not usually necessary for newly-planted trees unless there are broken or crossing branches. Allow the tree to focus its energy on establishing roots before encouraging new growth.

Advantages of Planting in Early Autumn
Planting in early autumn gives your tree the best chance to establish itself before the ground freezes. The cooler temperatures reduce stress, and the tree can focus on root growth without the pressure of supporting a full canopy of leaves. Plus, the discounts available at this time of year mean you can invest in more plants or upgrade to larger specimens without breaking the bank.

So, don’t let a few crispy leaves deter you. With the right care, a late-summer tree can become a thriving, beautiful addition to your landscape. Take advantage of the seasonal discounts and plant your trees with confidence this autumn!

Can I still plant?

 

Yes! You can plant.

‘Is it too late to plant?’ This is a question we hear a lot this time of year.

The answer: You can plant anytime during the growing season!While planting in the heat of summer poses some challenges, container grown perennials and shrubs are always happy to get their roots into the ground.

The key is water.  High temperatures and intense sunlight cause plants to make strong demands on their root system to keep up with transpiration (think of the plant ‘sweating’ to cool off). When the roots have to work hardto keep the plant hydrated, it can’t use that energy for growing roots. Even worse, if the roots can’t find the water it needs the plant suffers.

planting-tree-6l

For successful summer planting, make sure your plants are well hydrated before you transplant and plant in the cooler hours of early morning or evening.  This reduces the stress of transplanting.  Make your hole the same depth and twice as wide as the container your plant came in.  Larger plants, shrubs and trees will benefit from pre-moistening the soil.  Fill the hole with water and let is seep into the ground completely. While the water is seeping into the surrounding soil, mix 1 part compost with 2 parts of the soil you removed from the hole. Remove your plant from its container and gently loosen the roots. Place the plant with its roots spread out. For perennials, annuals and shrubs, match the same soil level as the container grown plant.  Avoid burying it any deeper.  For trees, CSU recommends planting with the root ball elevated from the ground, as trees will settle over time.  For 1” caliper trees and smaller, plant 1” above the grade.  For 2”-4” caliper trees, plant 2” above the soil grade. Add some of the soil/compost mixture if it sits too low. Fill the hole with the remaining soil/compost mixture while gently tamping down to stabilize the plant.  Avoid packing the soil tightly.  Our goal is to eliminate air pockets while still making it possible for roots and water to penetrate the soil.  Top with compost or mulch to retain moisture and water deeply one more time with a root simulator. Planting_Shrub

Check your plants both morning and evening if it’s been hot and dry, for several weeks.  Moisture meters are handy tools to keep an eye on the moisture level surrounding the roots of your new transplants.  For larger trees and shrubs, be sure to check in several places around the root ball, as they can dry unevenly while they establish.  The long handle of a wooden spoon or a sharpened pencil can be used as a substitute if you prefer not to stick your fingers in the soil. Exposed wood absorbs moisture.  Poke your utensil into the soil a few inches and pull it up.  Feel the end of the utensil.   If it is dry, then water.  For plants with smaller root masses, check the soil about 2 inches below the surface for moisture. For larger plants like trees, check 3 to 4 inches into the soil.  If dry, give it a deep soaking.  Once your plants are settled and appear to be growing well, you can begin to reduce your watering frequency depending on your plants particular needs.  Drought tolerant trees, shrubs and perennials will still need a deep soaking at least once per week during the hottest part of their first summer.

Remember to winter water trees, shrubs and perennials, too.  Our climate is arid and young plants are the most susceptible during this time. Even established trees will suffer.  If we don’t have a decent snowfall for 3-4 weeks then watering will be necessary to maintain your plants health.  Failure to winter water is the most common reason for plant loss each spring.

The key is water. High temperatures and intense sunlight cause plants to make strong demands on their root system to keep up with transpiration (think of the plant ‘sweating’ to cool off). When the roots have to work hard to keep the plant hydrated, it can’t use that energy for growing roots. Even worse, if the roots can’t find the water it needs the plant suffers.

For successful summer planting, make sure your plants are well hydrated before you transplant and plant in the cooler hours of early morning or evening. This reduces the stress of transplanting. Make your hole the same depth and twice as wide as the container your plant came in. Larger plants, shrubs and trees will benefit from pre-moistening the soil. Fill the hole with water and let is seep into the ground completely. While the water is seeping into the surrounding soil, mix 1 part compost with 2 parts of the soil you removed from the hole. Remove your plant from its container and gently loosen the roots. Place the plant with its roots spread out. For perennials, annuals and shrubs, match the same soil level as the container grown plant.  Avoid burying it any deeper. For trees, CSU recommends planting with the root ball elevated from the ground, as trees will settle over time. For 1” caliper trees and smaller, plant 1” above the grade. For 2”-4” caliper trees, plant 2” above the soil grade.   Add some of the soil/compost mixture if it sits too low.  Fill the hole with the remaining soil/compost mixture while gently tamping down to stabilize the plant. Avoid packing the soil tightly. Our goal is to eliminate air pockets while still making it possible for roots and water to penetrate the soil. Top with compost or mulch to retain moisture, but keep the mulch at least 3″ away from tree trunks.  Water deeply one more time with a root simulator.   There is no need to fertilizer trees and shrubs their first season.  

Check your plants both morning and evening if it’s been hot and dry, for several weeks. Moisture meters are handy tools to keep an eye on the moisture level surrounding the roots of your new transplants. For larger trees and shrubs, be sure to check in several places around the root ball, as they can dry unevenly while they establish. The long handle of a wooden spoon or a sharpened pencil can be used as a substitute if you prefer not to stick your fingers in the soil. Exposed wood absorbs moisture. Poke your utensil into the soil a few inches and pull it up. Feel the end of the utensil. If it is dry, then water. For plants with smaller root masses, check the soil about 2 inches below the surface for moisture. For larger plants like trees, check 3 to 4 inches into the soil. If dry, give it a deep soaking. Once your plants are settled and appear to be growing well, you can begin to reduce your watering frequency depending on your plants particular needs. Drought tolerant trees, shrubs and perennials will still need a deep soaking at least once per week during the hottest part of their first summer.  Stake trees while they establish.

tree with stakes

Remember to winter water trees, shrubs and perennials, too. Our climate is arid and young plants are the most susceptible during this time. Even established trees will suffer. If we don’t have a decent snowfall for 3-4 weeks then watering will be necessary to maintain your plants health. Failure to winter water is the most common reason for plant loss each spring.

We also suggest using tree wrap on young trees to prevent the trunks from splitting during winter.  The usual rule of thumb is to wrap at Thanksgiving and remove the wrap at Easter.