Trees & Shrubs – Echter's Garden Talk

The Resilient Tree: Why Late-Summer Crispy Leaves Aren’t a Dealbreaker

As the heat of the summer starts to wane and the cool breeze of autumn begins to hint at its arrival, many gardeners find themselves drawn to the garden center, seeking new additions to their landscapes. However, one common sight that might give pause is a tree with crispy, dry leaves. While it might seem like a sign of distress, it’s important to understand what causes this condition and why a tree with crispy leaves might still be a great purchase.

Why Do Trees Get Crispy Leaves?
In Colorado, our summers can be particularly harsh on trees, especially those that are still in nursery pots. These pots can limit the root system’s access to water, and combined with intense sunlight and high temperatures, it’s no surprise that some trees may develop crispy leaves.

The primary culprit is often water stress. In a pot, even the most diligent watering might not keep up with the tree’s needs during the peak of summer. The roots can only pull from the limited soil available, and if that soil dries out too quickly, the leaves can suffer. However, while crispy leaves may look unattractive, they don’t necessarily indicate a sick tree. In most cases, the tree itself remains healthy and ready to thrive once planted in the ground.

Choosing a Tree in Late Summer
When selecting a tree with crispy leaves, it’s essential to look beyond the foliage. Check the trunk and branches for signs of health. The bark should be firm, without any cracks or peeling. Gently scratch a small area of the bark with your fingernail; if you see green beneath, the tree is alive and well. Also, inspect the roots if possible. Healthy roots are white or light brown and flexible, not mushy or brittle.

Late summer and early autumn are excellent times to plant trees in Colorado. The soil is still warm from the summer, which encourages root growth, but the air temperatures are cooler, reducing the stress on the tree. Additionally, many garden centers offer discounts on their remaining stock, allowing you to purchase high-quality trees at a fraction of the cost.

Watering Needs of Newly-Planted Trees
Watering is the most critical factor in the success of a newly-planted tree. Once your tree is in the ground, it’s essential to keep the root zone consistently moist. Water deeply, ensuring that the moisture reaches the full depth of the root ball and into the surrounding soil. In the first few weeks after planting, you may need to water every few days, depending on the weather.

As the tree establishes, you can gradually reduce the frequency of watering, but continue to water deeply. In Colorado, it’s also a good idea to water your trees during dry spells in winter. Even when the tree is dormant, its roots need moisture to survive.

Tips for Caring for Your New Tree
In addition to proper watering, mulching around the base of the tree can help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature. Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch, but keep it a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot. Pruning is not usually necessary for newly-planted trees unless there are broken or crossing branches. Allow the tree to focus its energy on establishing roots before encouraging new growth.

Advantages of Planting in Early Autumn
Planting in early autumn gives your tree the best chance to establish itself before the ground freezes. The cooler temperatures reduce stress, and the tree can focus on root growth without the pressure of supporting a full canopy of leaves. Plus, the discounts available at this time of year mean you can invest in more plants or upgrade to larger specimens without breaking the bank.

So, don’t let a few crispy leaves deter you. With the right care, a late-summer tree can become a thriving, beautiful addition to your landscape. Take advantage of the seasonal discounts and plant your trees with confidence this autumn!

Embrace the Benefits of Autumn Planting in Colorado

When gardening in a challenging climate like Colorado’s, the timing of planting can impact the success of our gardens. While spring is often hailed as the prime season for gardening, and summer might seem tempting, there’s a quieter, less celebrated time that offers significant advantages: early autumn. Planting trees, shrubs, and perennials in the fall can lead to healthier, more resilient plants, and a garden that’s ready to thrive come spring. Here’s why autumn should be your go-to season for planting.

Cooler Temperatures = Happier Plants
Colorado’s summers can be scorching, with temperatures frequently reaching highs that stress plants—especially newly planted ones. In contrast, early autumn brings cooler days and nights, which are much gentler on young roots. This milder weather reduces the risk of transplant shock, allowing plants to establish themselves more comfortably. With the intense heat of summer behind us, your new trees, shrubs, and perennials can focus on root development without the added burden of extreme temperatures.

Extended Root Growth Period
One of the most significant advantages of fall planting is the extended period for root growth. In the fall, soil temperatures remain warm enough to encourage root development even as air temperatures drop. This allows plants to develop strong, deep roots before winter sets in. By the time spring arrives, your plants are already well-established and better equipped to handle the growing season’s demands. In contrast, plants set in the ground during summer may struggle to establish roots while also trying to maintain top growth.

Reduced Watering Needs
In Colorado, water conservation is always top of mind, and fall planting offers a water-wise solution. Cooler temperatures mean less evaporation and reduced water stress for your plants. Additionally, autumn rains can help provide consistent moisture, reducing the need for supplemental watering. Newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials will still need regular watering to get established, but the amount required is typically much less than what’s needed during the hot, dry summer months.

Fewer Pests and Diseases
Summer gardens are often plagued by pests and diseases, which can make establishing new plants a challenge. However, many of these issues begin to wane as the weather cools in autumn. This reduction in pest and disease pressure means your new plants are less likely to face immediate threats, allowing them to settle in and grow without the need for constant vigilance or treatment. It’s a natural way to give your plants a healthier start.

Enjoy Better Selection at Nurseries
While spring and summer might be the busiest time at nurseries, autumn often brings a more curated selection of hardy plants that are well-suited to Colorado’s climate. Many nurseries, like ours, offer sales or discounts as they clear out inventory before winter, so you might find high-quality trees, shrubs, and perennials at a great price. Plus, with fewer customers around, you’ll have more time to browse and get advice from knowledgeable staff without feeling rushed.

Get a Head Start on Spring
By planting in the fall, you’re essentially giving your garden a head start on the next growing season. Come spring, when everyone else is just starting to dig, your fall-planted trees, shrubs, and perennials will already be settled, ready to burst into growth and bloom. This can lead to earlier flowering, stronger plants, and a garden that looks more mature and vibrant from the get-go.

If you’re looking to create a resilient, thriving garden in Colorado, consider making early autumn your prime planting season. The cooler temperatures, extended root growth period, reduced watering needs, fewer pests, and the chance to get a head start on spring all make fall an excellent time to invest in your garden’s future. So, as summer winds down, don’t pack away your gardening tools just yet—embrace the benefits of autumn planting, and watch your garden flourish.

Growing Grapes in Colorado Gardens: A Comprehensive Guide

Growing grapes in Colorado can be a rewarding experience, whether you’re aiming for fresh table grapes, juice, or even homemade wine. This guide will walk you through the essential steps for successful grape cultivation, from choosing the right cultivars to planting, trellising, pruning, and general care.

Types and Cultivars

Types of Grapes:

Table Grapes: Ideal for fresh eating, with popular seedless varieties like Himrod, Interlaken, Canadice, St. Theresa, and Reliance.
Juice and Jelly Grapes: Popular cultivars include Concord, Valiant, Niagara, and St. Croix.
Wine Grapes
Raisin Grapes

Cultivars:

American Cultivars (Vitis labrusca): Known for their strong “foxy” (musty) flavor and aroma, these are used for juice, fresh eating, and some wines.
European Cultivars (Vitis vinifera): With tight clusters and thin skins, these grapes are used for wines and require more heat units for maturity, making them less suitable for Colorado.
French-American Hybrids: Popular for wine, with characteristics that vary depending on parentage.

Planting Grapes

Grapes need full sun and protection from wind. Space plants 6 to 8 feet apart, in rows 6 to 10 feet apart, depending on your trellising system. Strong trellising systems are necessary to support the heavy vines and fruit. Use treated posts and 12-gauge or heavier wire.

Trellising and Pruning

Grapes fruit on one-year-old wood, making pruning a balance between fruit production and renewing wood. Proper pruning is essential for high yields and large clusters of grapes. Unpruned or under-pruned grapes will produce many small clusters of tiny grapes, while over-pruning reduces yield.

Single Curtain System:

Pruning at Planting: Cut back to two to three buds to encourage the growth of a strong primary trunk.
- Image provided by CSU extension
Second Spring Pruning: Select one cane to become the trunk and remove others, leaving one or two renewal spurs.
- Image provided by CSU extension
Third Spring Pruning: Select two one-year-old canes to become fruiting canes and cordon arms along the trellis. Prune two other canes back to two buds each to serve as renewal spurs.
- Image provided by CSU extension
Fourth Spring and Beyond: Continue selecting new fruiting canes and renewal spurs each spring, maintaining the balance between fruit production and new wood growth.
- Image provided by CSU extension

General Care of Grapes

Mulching: Use a four-foot-wide weed-free bark/wood chip mulch strip under the trellis to help retain moisture and reduce weed competition.
Watering: Avoid over-watering, as it can lead to iron chlorosis.
Fertilization: Go light on fertilization. Apply one-fourth cup of 21-0-0 (or equivalent) per established plant, broadcast under the trellis, and water in.
Harvest: Flavor is the best indicator for home gardeners to determine harvest time.

Common Grape Pests

Fruit:

Birds: Bird netting may be necessary to protect the fruit.
Botrytis Bunch Rot: Often a problem with heavy canopies due to inadequate pruning and poor air circulation.
Spotted Wing Drosophila Flies: These can affect ripe grapes.

Plants:

Powdery Mildew: Refer to CSU Extension Fact Sheet #2.902 for management.
Iron Chlorosis: Typically a symptom of over-watering. Refer to CSU Extension CMG GardenNotes #223 for more information.
Root Rots: Poor soil drainage can lead to root rot issues.
Weeds and Diseases: Grapes do not tolerate competition well, so adequate control is necessary.

By following these guidelines, you can enjoy a bountiful grape harvest in your Colorado garden. Happy gardening!

For more detailed information, call or visit Echter’s Garden Center or contact your local CSU Extension office.

Growing and Pruning Raspberries in Colorado: A Comprehensive Guide

Raspberries are a delightful addition to any home garden, providing delicious fruit and vibrant foliage. In Colorado, only selected varieties of red and yellow raspberries are recommended due to the state’s unique climate. This guide covers everything from choosing the right varieties to effective pruning techniques, ensuring you enjoy a bountiful raspberry harvest.

Suitable Raspberry Varieties for Colorado

Red and Yellow Raspberries:

Best for general cultivation in Colorado.
Recommended varieties include summer-bearing types like ‘Nova’ and ‘Boyne,’ and fall-bearing types suitable for the Front Range and Western Slope.

Black Raspberries:

Hardy varieties such as Niwot and Pequot can thrive in some Colorado areas.

Other Varieties:

Blackberries, purple raspberries, boysenberries, loganberries, and dewberries require special winter protection and are less recommended.

Types of Raspberries

Summer-Bearing (Floricane):

Produce flowers and fruit on second-year canes.
Fruit once per season.

Fall-Bearing (Primocane or Everbearing):

Produce flowers and fruit on first-year canes.
Can provide two harvests: one in fall and a lighter one in summer on the lower parts of the canes.

Soil Preparation and Planting

Soil Requirements:

Well-drained garden soil rich in organic matter.
Conduct a soil test to determine nutrient needs, especially nitrogen, zinc, iron, and manganese.

Planting:

Plant red and yellow raspberries as rooted suckers in spring.
Space plants 2-3 feet apart with rows 5-10 feet apart.
Cut tops to 4-6 inches above ground after planting.

Pruning Techniques

Red Raspberries:

Can be trained to a single stake or supported by horizontal wires 18” apart.
Freestanding canes should be headed back below 4.5 feet to prevent bending.

Black and Purple Raspberries:

Less vigorous and pruned heavily.
Often left freestanding.

General Pruning Tips:

Remove spent floricanes after fruiting to prevent disease.
In spring, remove dead, weak, and small canes.
For fall-bearing varieties, either mow all canes to ground level after harvest or remove the fruited cane parts, leaving the lower portions for summer fruit.

Trellising and Support

Trellising is advisable to keep canes erect and simplify harvesting.
Use wires 3 feet above ground to confine canes to the hedge row.
Larger fruit can be achieved by tipping canes at a convenient height.

Watering and Fertilization

Watering:

Maintain moderate moisture in the root zone.
Increase watering during flowering and fruiting periods.
Withhold water after the first frost to harden off plants.

Fertilization:

Apply nitrogen fertilizer as needed based on soil tests and cane growth.
Fall-bearing raspberries require more nitrogen than summer-bearing varieties.

Winter Protection

For Summer-Bearing Varieties:

Lay canes down and cover with soil or mulch after November 1.
Lift canes in early April and return the soil to the furrow.

For Fall-Bearing Varieties:

Mow canes after harvest to avoid winter damage.
If a summer crop is desired, protect canes similarly to summer-bearing types.

Yield and Longevity

Expect 15-20 pounds of fruit per year from a 25-foot hedge row by the third year.
Productivity may decline after 8-10 years, necessitating relocation of the raspberry bed.

Disease and Pest Management

Common Pests:

Spider mites, which can be managed by maintaining healthy, well-watered plants.
Raspberry cane borers, identified by wilting cane tips, can be controlled by removing affected canes.
Spotted wing drosophila, managed through refrigeration, cleanup of dropped fruit, and trapping.

Preventative Measures:

Purchase disease-free stock from reputable sources.
Regularly thin canes to improve light and air circulation.

By following these guidelines, you can successfully grow and enjoy raspberries in your Colorado garden. For more detailed information and expert advice, contact Echter’s Garden Center or refer to resources from Colorado State University Extension. Happy gardening!

Growing Blueberries: A Comprehensive Guide to Blueberry Care & Culture

Blueberry bushes are an excellent addition to both edible and ornamental landscapes. They not only produce delicious, nutritious fruit but also enhance the garden’s aesthetic with their glossy, deep green leaves in summer and vibrant scarlet foliage in autumn. Here’s how to successfully cultivate blueberries, particularly in regions like the Rocky Mountain West, where soil conditions may pose a challenge.

Essential Growing Conditions

To thrive, blueberries require well-drained, acidic soil (pH 4.5 – 5.5) rich in organic matter. They should be planted in part shade/shade locations and protected from harsh winter winds. Given that naturally acidic soil is rare in the Rocky Mountain region, consider the following methods to create suitable conditions:

Soil Replacement: Remove existing soil from the planting area to a depth of two feet and replace it with a mix of 50% good commercial topsoil and 50% horticultural sphagnum peat moss. Adding extra compost is also beneficial.
Container Planting: Use half a whiskey barrel or a large 20″ plastic pot with additional drainage holes. Fill with the soil mix mentioned above and sink the container into the ground.
Raised Beds: Build a raised bed (3-4 feet wide and 8-12 inches high) using the same specialized soil mix.

Regularly test the soil’s pH using test kits available from Echter’s or other local garden centers.

Plant Care Tips

Mulching: Apply a layer of bark chips to conserve moisture, cool the roots, and suppress weeds.
Watering: Maintain continuous but moderate moisture throughout the growing season. Avoid over-watering by checking the soil’s top inch for moisture before watering.
Fertilization: Annually amend the soil with compost and regularly acidify with products like Ferti-lome Evergreen Food or Miracid. Start fertilizing in May, just before bloom, and continue as directed on the fertilizer label.
Pest and Disease Control: Insect problems are rare but can be managed with Malathion if necessary. To prevent fungal issues, water in the early morning and prune correctly.

Bird Control

Birds such as robins, finches, and starlings enjoy blueberries just as much as we do. To protect your crop, cover shrubs with Ross Garden Netting as berries begin to ripen, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Harvest and Storage

Blueberries are harvested from July through September. Store them in a refrigerator at 32-35°F to keep them fresh for 10-14 days. Fresh blueberries freeze well and maintain their taste, texture, and appearance for up to two years when stored at 0°F. Always freeze blueberries unwashed to preserve their natural protective coating. They can also be canned or processed into syrup.

Winter Protection

For best results, protect blueberry bushes during winter:

Apply 4-5 inches of bark mulch around the base in late November after the ground freezes. Remove the mulch in April.
Water during extended dry periods or when there’s no snow cover.
Stop fertilizing by the end of July to allow plants to harden off before winter.

Pruning Guide

Proper pruning is essential for healthy blueberry plants and optimal fruit production:

Establishment Years (First Two Years): Remove winter-killed and diseased wood. Prevent fruit setting to aid establishment by rubbing out flower buds in early spring.
First Pruning Year: Prune in early spring after the bush has been planted for two seasons. Remove diseased or dead wood and any crossing canes. Keep two or three healthy canes.
Second Through Fifth Years: Continue the same process each year, maintaining a goal of 12 healthy canes of different ages by the fifth year.
Maintenance Pruning (After Fifth Year): Maintain the bush at 12-15 canes, pruning out the oldest canes annually and leaving two or three new ones.

Pruning, along with proper soil pH, drip irrigation, and mulching, significantly impacts berry size and quality. Annual pruning ensures consistent, high-quality fruit production.

In summary, with the right care and attention, blueberry bushes can be a fruitful and beautiful part of your garden. By following these guidelines, you can enjoy bountiful harvests of delicious, nutritious blueberries year after year.

For more gardening tips and expert advice, visit our website at Echter’s Garden Center or call us at 303-424-7979.

Choosing the Perfect Maple: 5 of Our Favorite Varieties for Your Colorado Garden

Adding a tree to your landscape can bring years of enjoyment throughout every season, but there’s something extra special about a maple tree in the autumn. Their vibrant colors are part of what makes the season so very beautiful.

There’s no shortage of choices among this popular type of tree. Over 130 different types of maple trees can be found within the Acer plant genus, which are further divided into eleven different varieties. A walk through our nursery will provide you with plenty of choices among these popular trees, and it can be downright difficult to choose.

Each type of maple tree offers its own unique charm and benefits. Let’s explore five of the most popular varieties: the Autumn Blaze Maple, Redpointe Maple, Armstrong Gold Maple, Crimson Sunset Maple, and Sensation Maple, and discover why each would be an excellent choice for your landscape.

Autumn Blaze Maple
(Acer x freemanii ‘Autumn Blaze’)

Bringing the Fiery Beauty of Fall to Your Garden

The Autumn Blaze Maple is a tried-and-true favorite among Colorado gardeners, and for good reason. This hybrid variety, a cross between the silver maple and red maple, is renowned for its breathtaking display of fiery autumnal colors. Its leaves transition from vibrant green in spring to a blazing spectrum of red, orange, and yellow come fall. With its upright, oval shape and rapid growth rate, it can reach a height of 50 feet or more, making it a majestic addition to any landscape.

Colorado’s fluctuating climate can be a challenge, but the Autumn Blaze is well-suited to withstand the state’s diverse weather conditions. It’s adaptable to different soil types and is relatively pest and disease-resistant. This maple’s hardiness and stunning seasonal show make it an excellent choice for Colorado gardeners looking to add a touch of autumnal brilliance to their outdoor space.

Redpointe Maple
(Acer rubrum ‘Frank Jr.’)

The Epitome of Elegance and Durability

If you’re seeking a maple tree that embodies both elegance and resilience, the Redpointe Maple should be at the top of your list. This cultivar of the native red maple is celebrated for its refined appearance and adaptability. Its glossy, dark green leaves turn a vibrant red in the fall, creating a stunning contrast against its gray bark.

One of the key advantages of the Redpointe Maple is its ability to thrive in a variety of soil conditions, including the alkaline soils often found in Colorado. It also displays excellent resistance to pests and diseases. With its moderate growth rate and mature height of 40 to 50 feet, this maple offers a perfect balance between manageable size and striking presence. For Colorado gardeners wanting both a versatile and visually striking addition to their landscape, the Redpointe Maple is a standout choice.

Armstrong Gold Maple
(Acer platanoides ‘JFS-KW202’)

Vertical Elegance and Dazzling Foliage

The Armstrong Gold Maple is a cultivar of the Norway Maple, known for its elegant, upright growth habit and brilliant golden-yellow leaves. This slender tree reaches heights of 30 to 40 feet, making it an excellent choice for smaller gardens or spaces where vertical emphasis is desired. Its compact size also makes it a fantastic option for urban and suburban environments.

In Colorado, where space can sometimes be limited, the Armstrong Gold shines as a space-saving yet impactful choice. It’s also well-suited to various soil types and exhibits strong resistance to pests and diseases. The striking gold foliage persists throughout the growing season, adding a touch of radiance to your landscape. For Colorado gardeners who would like a vertical focal point with year-round visual interest, the Armstrong Gold is a stellar pick.

Crimson Sunset Maple
(Acer truncatum x A. platanoides ‘JFS-KW202’)

An Invigorating Burst of Crimson All Year Round

The Crimson Sunset Maple is a captivating hybrid maple that brings a burst of deep crimson to your garden throughout the entire year. Its distinctive, maroon-red leaves maintain their rich color from spring through fall, providing a consistent display of beauty. This cultivar is known for its rapid growth and ability to adapt to various soil conditions.

At a mature height of 30 to 40 feet, the Crimson Sunset is well-suited to a wide range of landscape designs. Its dense, rounded canopy provides ample shade, making it a welcome addition to outdoor spaces where relief from the sun is desired. With its striking foliage and adaptable nature, this maple is an excellent choice for Colorado gardeners who are looking for a reliable, year-round burst of deep-crimson color in their garden.

Sensation Maple
(Acer platanoides ‘Sensation’)

Delight in the Symphony of Foliage

The Sensation Maple, a cultivar of the Norway Maple, is aptly named for the symphony of colors it brings to your garden. In spring, its leaves unfurl in shades of pink, cream, and green, creating a visually captivating display. As the seasons progress, the foliage transitions to a stunning variegation of white and green in summer, and finally into an outstanding display of brilliant red autumn foliage, providing year-round interest.

This maple’s adaptability to various soil types, coupled with its resistance to pests and diseases, makes it a reliable choice for Colorado gardeners. With a mature height of 30 to 40 feet, the Sensation is well-suited to both large and small landscapes. Its unique and ever-changing foliage ensures that there’s always something exciting happening in your garden.

In the vibrant tapestry of Colorado’s diverse landscapes, these five maple trees each bring their own unique personality and benefits. Whether you’re looking for the fiery hues of the Autumn Blaze, the refined elegance of the Redpointe, the vertical grace of the Armstrong Gold, the year-round deep burgundy of the Crimson Sunset, or the ever-changing foliage of the Sensation, there’s a maple tree that will be perfectly at home in your garden.

If you just can’t decide, come in and talk to one of our certified nursery professionals! They’ll be happy to answer all of your questions and help you choose one of these remarkable maples for your landscape.

The 5 Best Shrubs for Fall Color

Nothing brings the magic of autumn to life like the brilliant reds and oranges of leaves in the landscape. It’s what everyone eagerly waits for each year. It’s easy to bring a little of that autumn magic home with the right shrub! Check out these five easy-to-grow stunners that all perform well in Colorado gardens.

BURNING BUSH
Euonymus Alatus Compacta
Zone 4 / Elevation to 7500 ft.
Mature size: 6′-8′ high & wide

The best of the best in fall color! Introduced to the United States in 1860, this striking shrub quickly became popular for its fiery scarlet foliage throughout the autumn season. It has a natural, open form that shows well in borders, beds, and foundation plantings. Stunning when used as a specimen planting, screen, or hedge. This one will create a statement wherever you plant it! It’s low maintenance and exceptionally easy to grow. Will grow best in full to part sun (at least 4-6 hrs. of full sun per day). It’s adaptable to moist or dry soil, and easily pruned for shape when needed.

VIKING CHOKEBERRY
Aronia Melanocarpa “Viking”
Zone 3 / Elevation to 8000 ft.
Mature size: 6′-7′ high / 3′-5′ wide

Glorious red-orange foliage in the autumn is accented by an abundance of glossy, black berries! This low-maintenance shrub doesn’t require a lot of attention and boasts the added benefit of being exceptionally pest and disease resistant. Berries are high in flavinoids and antioxidants as well as vitamins and minerals. Good for juice, jelly, and jams. Grows best in full sun — that’s at least six hours of direct sun per day. With this shrub, you’ll have the most striking autumn color in the neighborhood, as well as the best tasting homemade preserves and desserts!

AUTUMN JAZZ VIBURNUM
Viburnum Dentatum
Zone 4 / Elevation to 7,000 ft.
Mature size: 10′ high / 8′-10′ wide

This beauty has an upright-oval habit with an impressive kaleidoscope of yellow, orange, red, and burgundy fall color. Ornamental (non-edible) blue-black berries accent the bright colors nicely. This low-maintenance deciduous shrub exhibits an excellent adaptability to a broad spectrum of soil types. Beautiful used as a border, tall hedge, or background planting.

SPREADING COTONEASTER
Cotoneaster Divaricatus
Zone 2 / Elevation to 8,500 ft.
Mature size: 4′-6′ high / 6′-8′ wide

This graceful shrub features arching branches that provide gorgeous autumn color ranging from orange to red to purple. Dark red berries dot the branches and persist into winter. Its informal shape creates a beautiful accent as a hedge, border, or foundation planting. It adapts well to most soil conditions and tolerates wind well. Grows best in full sun to part sun.

AMBER JUBILEE NINEBARK
Physocarpus Opulifollus
Zone 3 / Elevation to 8,000 ft.
Mature size: 5′-6′ high / 4′ wide

A standout variety in the garden, with dramatic foliage color throughout the year! It’s colorful foliage emerges as orange, yellow and red, progresses to green, then deepens into amazing harvest tones of reds and purples in the autumn. Multi-lobed, textured edges contribute to the dramatic look and feel of the leaves. In winter, the older stems have that classic Ninebark peeling bark for added textural interest. This is a great choice to create a focal point in your landscape or grow it as a hedge or foundation planting. Grows best in full sun for optimum leaf color.

If you’re not quite sure what would work best in your home landscape, stop by and talk to one of our nursery experts. They’ll help you plant a little autumn magic that you’ll enjoy for years to come.

Deer Resistant Plant List

Use this handy list to help you choose plants that deer usually don’t find appetizing in the landscape.

Keep in mind: No plant is absolutely guaranteed to be deer proof! If deer are hungry enough, they’ll eat anything — even plants they don’t like — especially in the winter when food sources are scarce. The plants below are not usually a deer’s top choice.

Make sure you’re not planting a buffet of deer favorites in your landscape! Deer show a particular preference for narrow-leafed evergreens, especially arborvitae and fir. They also love tender, green plants like hostas, daylilies, and English ivy. You might also want to employ some other strategies in addition to deer-resistant plant choices.

BULBS	HERBS
Allium	Marjoram
Daffodils	Mints
Garlic	Oregano
Iris	Thyme
Onions	Rosemary

Shrubs

Alpine Currant	Austrian Copper Rose	Big Western Sage
Boulder Raspberry	Chokecherry	Common Hackberry
Common Juniper	Creeping Mahonia	Curl-leaf Mountain Mahogany
Euonymus	Fernbush	Fragrant Sumac
Golden Currant	Hancock Coralberry	Leadplant
Lilacs	Mountain Ninebark	Nanking Cherry
Oregon Grape Holly	Persian Yellow Rose	Potentilla
Pyracantha	Quince	Rabbitbrush
Red Twig Dogwood	Rose of Sharon (Althea)	Santolina
Silver Buffaloberry	Snowberry	Spirea

Perennials

Alpine Currant	Euphorbia	Lily of the Valley	Salvia
Apache Plume	Flax	Mexican Hat Coneflower	Sedum
Basket of Gold	Foxglove	Penstemon	Shasta Daisy
Bleeding Heart	Globe Thistle	Peony	Soapwort
Chocolate Flower	Goldenrod	Poker Plant	Snowdrops
Clematis	Honeysuckle	Poppies	Snow in Summer
Coneflower	Lambs Ear	Prarie Zinna	Virginia Creeper
Creeping Phlox	Lavender	Prickly Pear	Western White Clematis
Dianthus	Lenten Rose (Hellebore)	Purple Prarie Clover	Yarrows
Delphinium	Liatris	Russian Sage	Yucca

Trees

Colorado Spruce	Honeylocust
Concolor Fir	Lodgepole Pine
Douglas Fir	Pinyon Pine
Gambel’s Oak	Rocky Mountain Maple

Early Spring Garden Tips

“I love spring anywhere,
but if I could choose,
I would always greet it
in a garden.”

~ Ruth Stout ~

We all look forward to the spring season with delight each year. The promise of warmer weather, more daylight, and all of those beautiful spring flowers is a welcome reward after a long winter of grey days, icy air, and shoveling snow. Soon trees and shrubs will be budding, bulbs and perennials will begin emerging from the ground, and our gardens will slowly come back to life once again. Though it’s still too early to plant, there’s plenty to do in the garden. Grab your garden tools, and let’s get started!

CARE OF GARDEN TOOLS — Speaking of garden tools, early spring is a good time to make sure they’re ready for the upcoming season. Check your gardening supplies so that you’ll have what you need in the spring. Gives your garden gloves a good wash and dry, or replace worn ones. Take time to clean all tools thoroughly, removing any residual soil, then inspect for damage or rust. If you do find rust, give those areas a good scrub with steel wool. It will be a long season of work for your garden tools, so it’s a good idea to have them sharpened at the beginning of the season. Echter’s can do that for you! Simply bring in your tools (and lawn mower blades), and for a nominal fee, we’ll sharpen them. If you need to replace or add to your garden tool arsenal, stop by. We’re well stocked with all kinds of garden implements — especially at the beginning of the year.

EARLY SPRING CLEANUP — Winter can be hard on your garden! Take a walk around your garden to assess any winter damage. Remove debris leftover from winter storms, and tidy up the garden beds and boxes. Clean up any dead annual or vegetable plants that remained over the winter. Trim back the tattered foliage or old bloom stalks of perennials to encourage new growth to come in. Cut back ornamental grasses as low as possible, so the old foliage won’t detract from the new growth. Don’t be in too big a hurry to remove mulches though. There are plenty of beneficial pollinators overwinter in gardens by hibernating in dried leaf piles and last-season’s perennial plants, and March can still be one of our snowiest months!

PREPARE YOUR SOIL — Now is a good time to add organic amendments like compost and peat moss. Rototill or spade into your garden soil to a depth of 6 inches.

PLAN YOUR VEGETABLE GARDEN — A great vegetable garden starts with a great plan! Make a list of what you’d like to grow, how much area you have, and how many of each plant you’d like to grow. Check seed packets for plants’ mature sizes, sunlight and watering needs, and the yield of the veggies when planning. Then have fun mapping out and designing your planting areas!

IT’S TIME TO PRUNE — If you didn’t get to it in February, you can still do pruning of deciduous trees and shrubs in March. Some exceptions would be birch, maple, walnut, and elm. These should be pruned in mid-summer. In early spring, you can still easily see the branching structure of trees and shrubs before the leaves start coming in. Begin by removing the three Ds: anything dead, damaged, or diseased. Then move on to any crossed branches (branches that rub against another), water sprouts (branches that grow straight up from the branch), and suckers (branches that spring up from the base of the tree or shrub). Generally speaking, remove young branches that are growing inwards towards the center of the tree as opposed to outwards. Use a pole pruner to reach branches up to about 15 ft. off the ground. Pruning paints and wound dressings are not recommended on the pruning cuts. If you missed it, here’s a deeper dive into late-winter pruning.

GET STARTED ON SOME EARLY LAWN CARE — As in other areas of the garden, begin by checking for any problems that may have developed. Once the snow has melted off your lawn, check the turf in shaded areas for snow mold, a fungus that is white to pink in color and grows on the surface of the grass blades. If you see evidence of snow mold, lightly rake the affected areas and dispose of the debris. Any remaining mold should dissipate on its own after that.

LAWNS SHOULD BE CORE AERATED once or twice each year. That’s done by poking holes in the ground and pulling out plugs. This reduces soil compaction and helps control thatch in lawns while also helping water and fertilizer move into the root zone. Schedule your lawn for an aeration in March, and prepare by marking your sprinkler heads to avoid having them damaged. Water the lawn the day before aerating, so it will be softer and easier to pull plugs. Then water again after aeration to help the lawn recover. Leaving the plugs on the surface will help break down the thatch that has accumulated.

GET A HEAD START ON WEEDS — You can begin to get ahead of weeds by choosing a lawn fertilizer with a pre-emergent as your first feeding of the year. This will prevent annual weed seeds from germinating, and give your lawn a chance to thicken up and discourage weeds on its own. It’s best to apply these after aerating the lawn. This is important because aerating after a pre-emergent will greatly reduce its effectiveness!

OVERSEEDING — As the weather begins to reliably warm up in March, you can begin overseeding thin areas of lawn. Rake areas to be seeded to expose and loosen the soil, then apply a thin layer of Nature’s Yield Compost . Use a high-quality seed blended for your conditions. Echter’s has many different blends to choose from. A hand spreader will help to apply the seed evenly. After seeding, be sure to keep the surface area moist until the seed is well germinated.

PLANT COLD-HARDY CROPS — While it’s too early to plant tender, warm-season plants, it is time to plant some early cold-hardy crops. Things like onion sets, bare-root strawberries, asparagus roots and seed potatoes can be sowed directly into the vegetable garden in March. Be sure to keep a frost blanket handy for any late-season frosts, just to be on the safe side.

START SEEDS INDOORS — Now is the time to start broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, kohlrabi, alyssum, lobelia, pansy, and geranium seeds inside for planting out later in the spring. Start tomatoes and peppers inside now, then they’ll be ready to transfer to the garden beds in late May.

PREPARE BIRDHOUSES FOR THE BUSY SPRING SEASON — Returning birds will be looking for real estate soon! In preparation for the new arrivals, clean out and sterilize last year’s birdhouses, or put up new ones. Make sure any older birdhouses are still firmly mounted as well. It’s a good time to perform bird feeder maintenance too. Clean out all feeders and fill with fresh seed. You may also want to consider creating a pile of nesting materials to make your yard extra inviting for this year’s visitors.

Late Winter Pruning Checklist

Pruning allows what’s left to grow into something beautiful.

Late winter is an ideal time for pruning deciduous trees and shrubs. There’s no foliage growth yet, so the shape of the tree is easy to see — and so are any problems that need to be corrected through pruning! Pruning doesn’t need to be an overwhelming chore though. If you follow a simple checklist each year, you can keep up with this winter gardening task and keep your trees healthy. Gather your pruning tools, and let’s get started!

The three Ds: Dead, Diseased, Damaged

Begin your pruning by removing any of the three Ds — anything that’s diseased, damaged, or dead. Broken and damaged branches are more than just unsightly. They open the tree up to pests and disease. Prune back to at least 6 inches below the diseased area into healthy wood.

Removing dead branches is an obvious pruning task, but how do you know if a branch is dead or just dormant? Scrape away a small part of the bark, If it’s alive, it will be green underneath. If it’s dead, it will be hard and brown inside. You can also try the “bend test.” Bend the branch gently. A live branch will bend, but a dead branch will snap.

Water Sprouts and Suckers

Next, look for suckers and water sprouts and remove them. Water sprouts are newer branches growing straight upwards through the tree, whereas suckers are new growth springing up around the base of the tree.

Water sprouts are caused by heavy pruning in previous years, or by stress to the tree. To prune them away, cut at the base making sure to preserve the branch collar. The branch collar is a swollen area at the base of the water sprout. Prune to about 1/2″ away from the branch collar.

Crossing & Competing Branches

Look for branches that are not growing out from the center of the tree. These may be branches that, like water sprouts, grow straight upwards through the canopy. Also look for branches that are growing inwards towards the trunk. These branches are called competing branches because they compete for space, sun, and nutrients with healthier branches. Cut these away, so what remains are only healthy branches that are growing outwards from the main trunk.

Crossing branches are branches that grow across another. If left in place, these can rub against another branch causing damage. Removing a crossing branch ensures you won’t have to removed a damaged branch next winter!

The overall shape of the tree should be clearly visible now. Step back and look at the overall structure of the tree. If it still seems a little overcrowded in spots, prune until the shape is more even. You might want to raise the canopy a bit — that is, prune away any branches that are just too low. If there are branches that are in the way each time you mow in the summer, go ahead and remove them.

Renew an Overgrown Shrub

For shrubs that may have become overgrown and leggy through the years, a late-winter pruning can be done to improve shape, vigor, and blooming. Prune away the oldest and weakest canes at or near the ground level. This will improve the overall height & shape and should result in more foliage and better flower quality.

NOTE: It’s crucial to do a little homework before you begin pruning. If you prune spring-blooming shrubs (think lilac, forsythia, etc.) in late winter, you’ll be cutting off this spring’s blooms! Some shrubs (like hydrangea macrophylla) bloom on “old wood,” which means last year’s new canes. If you prune out the old wood on these shrubs, you’ll cut off the canes that would be blooming this year! So, a little judicious research will ensure you’re pruning the right shrub at the right time of year.

That’s it! If you keep up with this pruning checklist each winter, it should never become an overwhelming chore, and your trees and shrubs will be much healthier when springtime arrives.