gardening – Echter's Garden Talk

The Resilient Tree: Why Late-Summer Crispy Leaves Aren’t a Dealbreaker

As the heat of the summer starts to wane and the cool breeze of autumn begins to hint at its arrival, many gardeners find themselves drawn to the garden center, seeking new additions to their landscapes. However, one common sight that might give pause is a tree with crispy, dry leaves. While it might seem like a sign of distress, it’s important to understand what causes this condition and why a tree with crispy leaves might still be a great purchase.

Why Do Trees Get Crispy Leaves?
In Colorado, our summers can be particularly harsh on trees, especially those that are still in nursery pots. These pots can limit the root system’s access to water, and combined with intense sunlight and high temperatures, it’s no surprise that some trees may develop crispy leaves.

The primary culprit is often water stress. In a pot, even the most diligent watering might not keep up with the tree’s needs during the peak of summer. The roots can only pull from the limited soil available, and if that soil dries out too quickly, the leaves can suffer. However, while crispy leaves may look unattractive, they don’t necessarily indicate a sick tree. In most cases, the tree itself remains healthy and ready to thrive once planted in the ground.

Choosing a Tree in Late Summer
When selecting a tree with crispy leaves, it’s essential to look beyond the foliage. Check the trunk and branches for signs of health. The bark should be firm, without any cracks or peeling. Gently scratch a small area of the bark with your fingernail; if you see green beneath, the tree is alive and well. Also, inspect the roots if possible. Healthy roots are white or light brown and flexible, not mushy or brittle.

Late summer and early autumn are excellent times to plant trees in Colorado. The soil is still warm from the summer, which encourages root growth, but the air temperatures are cooler, reducing the stress on the tree. Additionally, many garden centers offer discounts on their remaining stock, allowing you to purchase high-quality trees at a fraction of the cost.

Watering Needs of Newly-Planted Trees
Watering is the most critical factor in the success of a newly-planted tree. Once your tree is in the ground, it’s essential to keep the root zone consistently moist. Water deeply, ensuring that the moisture reaches the full depth of the root ball and into the surrounding soil. In the first few weeks after planting, you may need to water every few days, depending on the weather.

As the tree establishes, you can gradually reduce the frequency of watering, but continue to water deeply. In Colorado, it’s also a good idea to water your trees during dry spells in winter. Even when the tree is dormant, its roots need moisture to survive.

Tips for Caring for Your New Tree
In addition to proper watering, mulching around the base of the tree can help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature. Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch, but keep it a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot. Pruning is not usually necessary for newly-planted trees unless there are broken or crossing branches. Allow the tree to focus its energy on establishing roots before encouraging new growth.

Advantages of Planting in Early Autumn
Planting in early autumn gives your tree the best chance to establish itself before the ground freezes. The cooler temperatures reduce stress, and the tree can focus on root growth without the pressure of supporting a full canopy of leaves. Plus, the discounts available at this time of year mean you can invest in more plants or upgrade to larger specimens without breaking the bank.

So, don’t let a few crispy leaves deter you. With the right care, a late-summer tree can become a thriving, beautiful addition to your landscape. Take advantage of the seasonal discounts and plant your trees with confidence this autumn!

Understanding Japanese Beetles in Your Garden

If you’re a gardener in Colorado, chances are you’ve encountered the voracious appetite of Japanese beetles wreaking havoc on your plants. These metallic green and copper-colored pests are more than just a nuisance. They can quickly decimate a garden if left unchecked. Let’s dive into what makes these beetles such a challenge for gardeners and how you can manage them effectively.

Identifying Japanese Beetles
Japanese beetles (Popillia japonica) are easily recognizable by their distinctive coloring: metallic green bodies with copper-brown wing covers. They are about half an inch long and have small white tufts of hair along their sides, which can sometimes resemble spots.

You’ll often find them congregating in groups on plants, particularly those with large leaves like roses, linden trees, and grapes.

Damage Caused by Japanese Beetles
These beetles are not picky eaters — they’re indiscriminate feeders. Their known diet includes over 300 plants. They chew through leaves, flowers, and even fruits, leaving behind skeletonized foliage that can quickly turn your once-vibrant garden into a ragged mess. Their feeding habits can weaken plants and make them more susceptible to other stressors, potentially leading to plant death in severe infestations.

Life Cycle of Japanese Beetles
Understanding the life cycle of Japanese beetles is crucial for effective management. They have a one-year life cycle that begins with eggs laid in the soil during mid-summer. These eggs hatch into grubs that feed on grass roots, causing damage to lawns and other grassy areas. By late spring of the following year, the grubs pupate and emerge as adult beetles, typically around June in Colorado.

Grub Stage Damage: Grubs feed on grassroots, which can lead to brown patches in lawns and weakened turf that easily pulls up like a loose carpet.
Adult Stage Damage: Adult beetles emerge and feed on foliage, flowers, and fruits, causing visible damage within days.

Protecting Your Landscape
Managing Japanese beetles requires a multi-pronged approach that addresses the damage they cause at each stage of their life cycle.

In the grub stage

Beetles will be burrowed into your lawn. There are a number of products available that target grubs in lawns and have proven to be effective against Japanese Beetles.

Products like Milky Spore (a bacterial disease of grubs), beneficial nematodes (parasitic organisms that target grubs), and grub control products such as GrubGONE! or GrubEX! can help reduce grub populations in the soil without harming beneficial insects.

Milky Spore (Paenibacillus popillae) is an organic product that is easy to use and will protect your landscape for the next ten years. It is a spore that affects Japanese Beetle grubs and nothing else! Yes, you read that right. It will not harm anything else in your garden. That means it can safely be used in the lawn, in the vegetable garden, and throughout your landscape. (Note: Expect this product to develop over time. It takes 3-4 years to build up enough of the spore disease to be noticeably effective)

Beneficial Nematodes (Heterorhabditis bacteriophora) seek out and kill all stages of harmful soil-dwelling insects — including Japanese Beetles. They are tiny worms found in soil that target young stages of pest insects, like larvae, grubs, nymphs, and pupae. They are a natural and effective alternative to chemical pesticides, and have no detrimental effect on non-target species such as ladybugs, earthworms and other helpful garden insects. Releasing the nematodes into your garden is a simple process. They are sold in an easy-release powder that dissolves quickly with water. For application, you can opt for a standard watering can or use a hose-end sprayer or pump sprayer to apply.

GrubGONE! is a natural and effective product with the main ingredient being Btg (Bacillus thuringiensis galleriae). Commonly found in nature, these bacteria can live and multiply within the bodies of insects, and produce spores and protein crystal toxins which can result in death of the insect host. It is a granular which should be applied in the spring, and then again in mid- to late summer when adult beetles will re-enter the turf to lay eggs and overwinter.

GrubEX! is a granular pesticide (Chlorantraniliprole 0.08%) that should be applied in spring or early summer. A single application can prevent grubs of all kinds from damaging your lawn all season long, especially killing the Japanese Beetle larvae (grubs) so they never get the chance to develop into adults.

In the adult beetle stage

Japanese beetles will be actively flying and feeding on plant material in your landscape. A number of strategies can be employed to mitigate damage and get rid of the adult beetles.

Handpicking adult beetles can sometimes be effectively employed in small plantings. The beetles are easily picked or dislodged; shaking infested plants over a collecting container in early morning when temperatures are cool can be particularly productive. It is best to physically remove them from your plants with a gloved hand, but don’t squish them! Squished bugs emit pheromones, which end up attracting more beetles. Take the captured beetles and toss them in a bucket of soapy water.

BeetleGONE! is the first Bacillus thuringiensis galleriae (Btg) bio-insecticide to control adult beetles (plus the larvae or turf grubs) at a level of efficacy equivalent to chemical standards, but without the side effects or off-target damage to beneficial insects and pollinators. Unlike other biological or chemical grub-control products, BeetleGONE! can be used as a curative treatment for grub control as well as a preventative treatment. It works by making the foliage inedible to the beetles. This is a powder that you mix with water to apply. (Should be reapplied every 7-10 days)

Beetle traps, which use pheromones to attract beetles into a bag or container, can be controversial. While they can capture large numbers of beetles, they might also attract more beetles to your yard. If you choose to use traps, place them at least 30 feet away from your garden to draw beetles away from rather than into your plants.

Dealing with Japanese beetles requires vigilance and a strategic approach. By understanding their life cycle, identifying their damage, and employing a combination of cultural, biological, and if necessary, chemical controls, you can protect your garden from these invasive pests. Experiment with different methods to find what works best for your specific garden environment and remember to always follow product instructions carefully.

By taking proactive steps, being persistent, and staying informed, you can keep your garden thriving and beautiful, even in the face of challenges posed by Japanese beetles.

For a more detailed look at Japanese Beetles and possible controls, check out this informative fact sheet from the Colorado State University Extension:
Japanese Beetle Fact Sheet by Dr. Whitney Cranshaw

Protecting Your Vegetable Garden from Rabbit Damage: Effective Strategies for Colorado Gardeners

They’re furry, they’re cute, and in the garden … they’re a real problem! These critters can be one of a gardener’s most despised pests, capable of wiping out entire crops overnight. They seem to have an insatiable appetite for young, tender shoots and leaves, which makes a vegetable garden one of their favorite targets.

Rabbits are attracted to a wide variety of plants, especially in the early spring when tender new growth is abundant. They can quickly decimate rows of lettuce, spinach, carrots, and they’ll even nibble on fruiting plants like tomatoes and peppers. Their feeding habits not only stunt plant growth but can also leave plants vulnerable to diseases and pests.

Protecting your vegetable garden from rabbit damage requires a combination of strategies tailored to your specific garden layout and local rabbit population. While physical barriers like fencing are among the most effective methods, integrating natural repellents, strategic planting, and vigilant maintenance can significantly enhance your garden’s defenses against these persistent pests.

SIGNS OF RABBITS IN THE GARDEN
If you suspect these furry marauders may be visiting your garden, there are a few ways to detect their presence. If you see your plants completely disappear overnight — especially when they’re young tender shoots such as peas, Swiss chard, or pepper seedlings — it’s a pretty good bet that rabbits are responsible. Look for their pea-sized droppings, tufts of hair on fences, and spots that look like a small animal may have been digging. You’ll find plant damage that looks like it’s been trimmed with pruners rather than nibbled or chewed. Rabbits have both upper and lower incisors, so when they feed, they create a clean cut.

There are a number of strategies that can be employed to discourage rabbits and make your veggie garden a much less attractive buffet option. Many gardeners have found one, or a combination of several, of the strategies below worked for them.

CREATING PHYSICAL BARRIERS
One of the most reliable and effective ways to protect your vegetable garden from rabbits is by using physical barriers like fencing.

A sturdy fence around your garden perimeter, preferably made of hardware cloth or chicken wire with holes no larger than 1 inch, can effectively keep rabbits out. Make sure the fence is at least 2 feet high to keep rabbits from jumping over, and you’ll need to extend fencing at least 6 inches below ground to prevent them from burrowing under.

For individual plants or smaller areas, construct barriers from chicken wire or hardware cloth to form cylinders around each plant. Planting small crops like lettuce in a hanging basket is another creative way to put them safely out of reach of the local rabbit population.

Raised beds (if they’re at least 2 feet high) can be another effective way to lift enticing plants off the ground and keep them out of sight and out of reach for rabbits.

TRY INTIMIDATING OBJECTS
Rabbits may feel less welcome in your garden if they think there are predators nearby. Try placing artificial snakes or owls within sight of favorite vegetable crops to discourage rabbits.

Moving objects like pinwheels may help deter a rabbit. Try motion activated sprinklers that will spray when rabbits hop by. Whatever objects you try, be sure to move them around to different places in the garden now and then, or swap them out for new and unfamiliar objects.

SMART GARDEN DESIGN & PLANT SELECTION
Another helpful strategy is to plan your garden with rabbit-resistant plants in mind. While no plant is completely rabbit-proof, some are far less appealing to rabbits than others. Try interplanting susceptible crops with more rabbit-resistant plants to confuse their noses and discourage them from feasting on your prized vegetables.

Rabbits will tend to stay away from plants that have a pungent scent, so planting highly-aromatic herbs such as rosemary, mint, thyme, and sage will act as a deterrent. The same is true for anything in the onion family: chives, onions, garlic, allium, etc., tend to act as a natural repellent.

TRY RABBIT REPELLENTS
Some gardeners swear by repellents to deter rabbits. Rabbit repellents work either by releasing an unpleasant odor or by making desirable plants taste bad.

I Must Garden’s rabbit repellent is a spray which combines both of these strategies, and is biodegradable and completely safe for people, pets, and the environment. Bonide’s Go Away Deer & Rabbit Repellent works by using strong scents combined with white pepper (rabbits don’t like anything spicy!) which works as an irritant without causing harm.

While these methods can be effective, they will need to be reapplied after rain or irrigation, and their effectiveness can vary based on local rabbit populations. It’s always a good idea to alternate repellents so that rabbits do not get used to any scent or flavor. Rabbits do most of their feeding in the evening and into the night, so to be most effective, you’ll want to apply deterrents at the end of the day.

MAINTENANCE AND MONITORING
Regular garden maintenance is crucial in deterring rabbits. Keep your garden tidy by removing weeds, tall grasses, and any debris where rabbits might hide or nest. Check your fences and barriers regularly for any signs of damage or places where rabbits might be able to squeeze through.

By implementing these strategies and staying proactive throughout the growing season, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest of vegetables without sharing it all with the local rabbit population.

Exploring the Beauty and Function of Water Garden Plants

Creating a beautiful and thriving water garden involves more than just placing plants in water — it’s about understanding the roles each type of aquatic plant plays in maintaining a balanced pond ecosystem. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out, understanding the different types of water plants and their roles can significantly enhance your pond’s health and beauty.

There are three main categories of aquatic plants: submerged, emergent, and floating. Each plays a vital role in maintaining water quality and supporting aquatic life. Incorporating a variety of these different types of plants not only enhances the visual appeal of your water garden but also plays a crucial role in maintaining its health. They are your allies in achieving a balanced and beautiful water garden. The key to a successful aquatic garden lies in understanding and harnessing the natural benefits of each type of aquatic plant.

Submerged Plants: Oxygenating Powerhouses

Submerged plants play a crucial role in maintaining water clarity and quality by oxygenating. They grow entirely underwater, with their leaves and stems providing habitats for aquatic organisms. These plants not only oxygenate the water but also absorb excess nutrients, helping to prevent algae overgrowth.

Examples include Anacharis (Egeria densa) a popular choice for its rapid growth and ability to absorb excess nutrients; and Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum) known for its bushy appearance and effective nutrient uptake.

Emergent Plants: Nature’s Filtration System

Emergent plants grow with their roots underwater but their stems and foliage above the water surface. They play a crucial role in providing habitat, shade, and filtration. Their upright growth adds vertical interest to your pond and offers shelter for fish and amphibians.

Popular choices for emergent pond plants include Water Lilies (Nymphaea spp.), famous for their beautiful blooms and large floating leaves that provide shade and habitat for aquatic creatures. Pickerel Weed (Pontederia cordata) features spikes of blue flowers above glossy green leaves and is ideal for shallow areas of the pond.

Floating Plants: Shade and Nutrient Control

Floating plants rest on the water’s surface without being anchored to the pond bed. They are excellent natural filters, shading the water and reducing sunlight penetration, which helps control algae growth. These plants are also prized for their ability to quickly cover the surface, reducing evaporation and providing hiding places for fish.

Water Hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes) and Water Lettuce (Pistia stratiotes) are both popular choices. Water Hyacinths are admired for their exquisite colorful blooms and broad leaves, while Water Lettuce forms dense mats of bright green that provide shade and shelter for fish.

When selecting aquatic plants, consider the specific conditions of your pond—such as water depth, sunlight exposure, and desired aesthetic—and choose plants accordingly. With proper planning and maintenance, your aquatic garden will flourish, providing enjoyment for both you and the diverse aquatic life it supports.

Growing Grapes in Colorado Gardens: A Comprehensive Guide

Growing grapes in Colorado can be a rewarding experience, whether you’re aiming for fresh table grapes, juice, or even homemade wine. This guide will walk you through the essential steps for successful grape cultivation, from choosing the right cultivars to planting, trellising, pruning, and general care.

Types and Cultivars

Types of Grapes:

Table Grapes: Ideal for fresh eating, with popular seedless varieties like Himrod, Interlaken, Canadice, St. Theresa, and Reliance.
Juice and Jelly Grapes: Popular cultivars include Concord, Valiant, Niagara, and St. Croix.
Wine Grapes
Raisin Grapes

Cultivars:

American Cultivars (Vitis labrusca): Known for their strong “foxy” (musty) flavor and aroma, these are used for juice, fresh eating, and some wines.
European Cultivars (Vitis vinifera): With tight clusters and thin skins, these grapes are used for wines and require more heat units for maturity, making them less suitable for Colorado.
French-American Hybrids: Popular for wine, with characteristics that vary depending on parentage.

Planting Grapes

Grapes need full sun and protection from wind. Space plants 6 to 8 feet apart, in rows 6 to 10 feet apart, depending on your trellising system. Strong trellising systems are necessary to support the heavy vines and fruit. Use treated posts and 12-gauge or heavier wire.

Trellising and Pruning

Grapes fruit on one-year-old wood, making pruning a balance between fruit production and renewing wood. Proper pruning is essential for high yields and large clusters of grapes. Unpruned or under-pruned grapes will produce many small clusters of tiny grapes, while over-pruning reduces yield.

Single Curtain System:

Pruning at Planting: Cut back to two to three buds to encourage the growth of a strong primary trunk.
- Image provided by CSU extension
Second Spring Pruning: Select one cane to become the trunk and remove others, leaving one or two renewal spurs.
- Image provided by CSU extension
Third Spring Pruning: Select two one-year-old canes to become fruiting canes and cordon arms along the trellis. Prune two other canes back to two buds each to serve as renewal spurs.
- Image provided by CSU extension
Fourth Spring and Beyond: Continue selecting new fruiting canes and renewal spurs each spring, maintaining the balance between fruit production and new wood growth.
- Image provided by CSU extension

General Care of Grapes

Mulching: Use a four-foot-wide weed-free bark/wood chip mulch strip under the trellis to help retain moisture and reduce weed competition.
Watering: Avoid over-watering, as it can lead to iron chlorosis.
Fertilization: Go light on fertilization. Apply one-fourth cup of 21-0-0 (or equivalent) per established plant, broadcast under the trellis, and water in.
Harvest: Flavor is the best indicator for home gardeners to determine harvest time.

Common Grape Pests

Fruit:

Birds: Bird netting may be necessary to protect the fruit.
Botrytis Bunch Rot: Often a problem with heavy canopies due to inadequate pruning and poor air circulation.
Spotted Wing Drosophila Flies: These can affect ripe grapes.

Plants:

Powdery Mildew: Refer to CSU Extension Fact Sheet #2.902 for management.
Iron Chlorosis: Typically a symptom of over-watering. Refer to CSU Extension CMG GardenNotes #223 for more information.
Root Rots: Poor soil drainage can lead to root rot issues.
Weeds and Diseases: Grapes do not tolerate competition well, so adequate control is necessary.

By following these guidelines, you can enjoy a bountiful grape harvest in your Colorado garden. Happy gardening!

For more detailed information, call or visit Echter’s Garden Center or contact your local CSU Extension office.

Growing and Pruning Raspberries in Colorado: A Comprehensive Guide

Raspberries are a delightful addition to any home garden, providing delicious fruit and vibrant foliage. In Colorado, only selected varieties of red and yellow raspberries are recommended due to the state’s unique climate. This guide covers everything from choosing the right varieties to effective pruning techniques, ensuring you enjoy a bountiful raspberry harvest.

Suitable Raspberry Varieties for Colorado

Red and Yellow Raspberries:

Best for general cultivation in Colorado.
Recommended varieties include summer-bearing types like ‘Nova’ and ‘Boyne,’ and fall-bearing types suitable for the Front Range and Western Slope.

Black Raspberries:

Hardy varieties such as Niwot and Pequot can thrive in some Colorado areas.

Other Varieties:

Blackberries, purple raspberries, boysenberries, loganberries, and dewberries require special winter protection and are less recommended.

Types of Raspberries

Summer-Bearing (Floricane):

Produce flowers and fruit on second-year canes.
Fruit once per season.

Fall-Bearing (Primocane or Everbearing):

Produce flowers and fruit on first-year canes.
Can provide two harvests: one in fall and a lighter one in summer on the lower parts of the canes.

Soil Preparation and Planting

Soil Requirements:

Well-drained garden soil rich in organic matter.
Conduct a soil test to determine nutrient needs, especially nitrogen, zinc, iron, and manganese.

Planting:

Plant red and yellow raspberries as rooted suckers in spring.
Space plants 2-3 feet apart with rows 5-10 feet apart.
Cut tops to 4-6 inches above ground after planting.

Pruning Techniques

Red Raspberries:

Can be trained to a single stake or supported by horizontal wires 18” apart.
Freestanding canes should be headed back below 4.5 feet to prevent bending.

Black and Purple Raspberries:

Less vigorous and pruned heavily.
Often left freestanding.

General Pruning Tips:

Remove spent floricanes after fruiting to prevent disease.
In spring, remove dead, weak, and small canes.
For fall-bearing varieties, either mow all canes to ground level after harvest or remove the fruited cane parts, leaving the lower portions for summer fruit.

Trellising and Support

Trellising is advisable to keep canes erect and simplify harvesting.
Use wires 3 feet above ground to confine canes to the hedge row.
Larger fruit can be achieved by tipping canes at a convenient height.

Watering and Fertilization

Watering:

Maintain moderate moisture in the root zone.
Increase watering during flowering and fruiting periods.
Withhold water after the first frost to harden off plants.

Fertilization:

Apply nitrogen fertilizer as needed based on soil tests and cane growth.
Fall-bearing raspberries require more nitrogen than summer-bearing varieties.

Winter Protection

For Summer-Bearing Varieties:

Lay canes down and cover with soil or mulch after November 1.
Lift canes in early April and return the soil to the furrow.

For Fall-Bearing Varieties:

Mow canes after harvest to avoid winter damage.
If a summer crop is desired, protect canes similarly to summer-bearing types.

Yield and Longevity

Expect 15-20 pounds of fruit per year from a 25-foot hedge row by the third year.
Productivity may decline after 8-10 years, necessitating relocation of the raspberry bed.

Disease and Pest Management

Common Pests:

Spider mites, which can be managed by maintaining healthy, well-watered plants.
Raspberry cane borers, identified by wilting cane tips, can be controlled by removing affected canes.
Spotted wing drosophila, managed through refrigeration, cleanup of dropped fruit, and trapping.

Preventative Measures:

Purchase disease-free stock from reputable sources.
Regularly thin canes to improve light and air circulation.

By following these guidelines, you can successfully grow and enjoy raspberries in your Colorado garden. For more detailed information and expert advice, contact Echter’s Garden Center or refer to resources from Colorado State University Extension. Happy gardening!

Exploring Ornamental Grasses for Colorado Gardens

Ornamental grasses offer a beautiful and low-maintenance option for adding texture, movement, and color to our gardens. Here are five of our favorites and why we love them for Colorado gardens.

Karl Foerster Grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’)

A timeless favorite among gardeners for its elegant, upright growth habit and feathery plumes that sway gracefully in the breeze. This cool-season grass is well-suited to Colorado’s climate, thriving in full sun to partial shade and well-drained soil. Its drought tolerance and low-maintenance requirements make it an excellent choice for busy gardeners. Karl Foerster Grass adds vertical interest to garden beds, provides winter interest with its golden-hued foliage, and serves as a lovely backdrop for flowering perennials. Its adaptability to various soil types and its resistance to pests and diseases further enhance its appeal for Colorado landscapes.

Elijah Blue Fescue
(Festuca glauca ‘Elijah Blue’)

Prized for its striking blue foliage, Elijah Blue adds a cool, soothing contrast to warmer-hued plants in the garden. This compact, clump-forming grass is well-suited to Colorado’s high-altitude gardens, where it thrives in full sun and well-drained, sandy soils. Its drought tolerance and deer resistance make it a practical choice for low-maintenance landscapes. Elijah Blue Fescue is ideal for edging pathways, rock gardens, or containers, where its unique coloration can be appreciated up close. Colorado gardeners seeking a pop of color and texture will find Elijah Blue Fescue to be a valuable addition to their gardens.

Mexican Feather Grass (Nassella tenuissima)

Graceful and ethereal, this delicate grass captivates with its feather-like foliage and airy swaying movement in the breeze. This warm-season grass thrives in Colorado’s sunny, dry conditions and is well-adapted to poor, rocky soils. Its fine texture and graceful form make it a versatile addition to both formal and informal garden settings. Mexican Feather Grass pairs beautifully with drought-tolerant perennials and succulents, creating a naturalistic, drought-tolerant landscape.

Standing Ovation
Little Blue Stem Grass
Schizachyrium scoparium

This popular selection celebrates the beauty of native grasses with its slender, upright stems and striking blue-green foliage that turns shades of bronze, purple, and red in the fall. This warm-season grass is well-suited to Colorado’s dry, sunny conditions and is tolerant of a wide range of soil types, including clay and sandy soils. Its compact size and drought tolerance make it a valuable addition to water-wise landscapes, where it provides habitat and food for birds and beneficial insects. Standing Ovation shines in naturalistic plantings, meadow gardens, or as a focal point in mixed borders, where its ever-changing colors offer year-round interest.

Golden Hakone Grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’)

This gorgeous perennial grass brings a touch of elegance to shaded areas of the garden with its cascading mounds of golden-yellow foliage that brighten even the darkest corners. It’s a cool-season grass that prefers partial to full shade and moist, well-drained soil, making it an excellent choice for gardens with dappled sunlight or filtered shade. Its graceful, arching habit adds movement and texture to woodland gardens, shady borders, or container plantings. Golden Hakone pairs beautifully with ferns, hostas, and other shade-loving perennials, creating a lush tapestry of colors and textures. While it may require supplemental watering during periods of drought, its low maintenance needs and stunning foliage make it a worthwhile addition to any Colorado garden.

Ornamental grasses offer an array of textures, colors, and forms that can enhance the beauty and functionality of Colorado gardens. From the classic elegance of Karl Foerster Grass to the ethereal charm of Mexican Feather Grass, there’s a grass to suit every taste and garden style.

Whether you’re looking to add vertical interest, vibrant color, or graceful movement to your landscape, these five ornamental grasses are sure to delight Colorado gardeners with their beauty and resilience. So why not consider adding one—or more—of these grasses to your garden this season? Your landscape will thank you for it!

Blossoming Beauties: 5 Summer Annuals for Your Sunny Colorado Garden

Are you ready to add a burst of vibrant color and charm to your sunny Colorado garden this summer? Look no further than these five popular annuals, each handpicked to thrive in the sunshine and liven up your outdoor space. From bold hues to delicate petals, these summer stars are sure to dazzle your senses all season long.

Zinnias
(Zinnia elegans)

Zinnias are the epitome of summer cheer, boasting a rainbow of hues ranging from fiery reds to sunny yellows and soft pinks. These hardy annuals thrive in full sun and well-drained soil, making them a perfect choice for beds, borders, and containers. One of the best features of zinnias is their long-lasting blooms, which attract butterflies and pollinators, adding life and movement to your garden. Whether you opt for compact varieties like ‘Profusion‘ or towering giants like ‘State Fair,’ zinnias are sure to steal the summer show with their vibrant colors and effortless charm.

Marigolds
(Tagetes spp.)

Marigolds are beloved for their cheerful blooms and pest-repelling properties, making them a must-have for any summer garden. These sun-loving annuals come in a variety of sizes and colors, from compact orange ‘French Marigolds‘ to tall and stately ‘African Marigolds.’ Not only do they add a bright pop of color to your garden, but they also help deter pests like aphids and nematodes, making them excellent companions for vegetables and other plants. Plus, their spicy fragrance adds an extra layer of charm to your outdoor space, making them a favorite among gardeners and pollinators alike.

Cosmos
(Cosmos bipinnatus)

If you’re looking for a carefree and whimsical addition to your garden, look no further than cosmos. These dainty annuals boast delicate, fern-like foliage and an abundance of daisy-like flowers that dance atop slender stems. Cosmos thrive in full sun and poor soil, making them an ideal choice for Colorado’s challenging growing conditions. Whether you choose classic white ‘Sensation‘ or vibrant ‘Sonata Red Shades,’ cosmos are sure to add a touch of ethereal beauty to your garden while attracting butterflies and beneficial insects.

Petunias
(Petunia x hybrida)

Beloved by gardeners for their vibrant colors and versatility, they will thrive in Colorado’s summer temperatures. With hues ranging from delicate pastels to bold jewel tones, these annual flowers add a burst of color to any garden or container. They are low-maintenance, requiring only ample sunlight and well-drained soil to flourish. Their cascading habit makes them perfect for hanging baskets, while compact varieties are ideal for borders and edging. Additionally, petunias attract pollinators like butterflies and hummingbirds, enhancing biodiversity in the garden. With their long-lasting blooms and easy care, it’s no wonder these vibrant plants remain a staple for Colorado gardeners seeking plenty of bright summer colors.

Verbena
(Verbena x hybrida)

For cascading color and continuous blooms all summer long, look no further than verbena. These trailing annuals are perfect for hanging baskets, containers, or spilling over the edges of beds and borders. Verbena’s clusters of tiny flowers come in a range of shades, from soft pastels to vibrant jewel tones, attracting butterflies and hummingbirds to your garden. Plus, verbena is heat and drought tolerant, making it an excellent choice for our sunny and arid climate.

These five popular low-maintenance annuals are sure to add beauty, color, and pollinator-friendly blooms to your summer garden. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out, these versatile plants are guaranteed to thrive and bring joy to your outdoor space all season long.

Hardening Off Annuals

HOW TO HARDEN OFF YOUR PLANTS

The gradual process of hardening off is a crucial one, like the slow but steady way we brace our entry into a chilly lake in summer. Jumping in all at once is a shock to our system, but if we start by sticking a toe in and slowly working our way in, the total immersion is not nearly so stressful.

Plants need a period of time to get used to their new homes. The adjustment period is called “hardening off.” We recommend a hardening off period of about three to five days. This will give the foliage tissue time to toughen up so the plants don’t go into shock.

COLD SPRING WEATHER

1. Put new plants outside in a place that is protected from sun and wind. Make sure they get watered as needed.

2. If nights will be cooler than 38-40 degrees, bring into the garage or house.

3. Move the plants out a littler farther each day toward the place in which they will be growing.

4. Leave the plants out at night unless there will be low temperatures. They still might need covering at night if there is a drastic change in the weather.

5. Plant on a cloudy day and they will take right off. Using a root stimulator when planting will help.

WARM SPRING WEATHER

The process above can be sped up, but it is basically the same.

HOT WEATHER

The process here is somewhat different since you are acclimating your plants to hot sun and drying winds.

1. Put plants in a cool, protected place for a day or two.

2. Gradually move plants towards their new location over a period of three or four days.

3. Plant in the cool of the evening or on a cloudy day.

4. Be prepared to shade with a shingle or board until plants are settled in.

5. Water as needed. Always check the soil first.

Seed Starting 101

“To plant a seed is to
believe in tomorrow”

~ Audrey Hepburn

If you’re impatiently counting the days until spring arrives so you can start working on this year’s garden, there might be a way to get started on it a little sooner. Mid-February to early March is an ideal time to start your garden indoors by planting from seed. It’s easy, it’s fun, and it’ll make waiting for spring’s arrival a little easier. Ready to get started? Let’s dig in!

WHAT CROPS CAN YOU START NOW?
Most annual flowers and vegetable plants should be sown indoors about six weeks before planting outside. Leaf crops like spinach, lettuce, Swiss chard as well as cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, peppers, eggplant and tomatoes can all be started indoors in late February and early March.

Different seed types require differing numbers of days to sprout and grow to transplant size. To be certain, consult the seed packet and then count backwards to figure out the date to sow your seed. Our Frost Hardiness List will help you find the best dates to plant in your particular area. (Some crops are fussy about having their roots disturbed by transplanting. You may want to sow seeds for root crops like radishes, carrots, and beets directly outdoors after the last frost date has passed for your area.)

START WITH CLEAN SEED STARTING CONTAINERS
Seed starting flats are a popular choice for starting seeds that will help maximize the number of plants you can grow per tray. Some come with domes that help keep the soil surface moist while germinating. If you will be using previously used containers, be sure to clean and sanitize them thoroughly before you begin. Biodegradable fiber pots and trays can be another good choice, and peat pellets are a fun alternative to use — especially with children.

CHOOSE THE RIGHT SOIL
The right soil is critical to success. You’ll want to choose a soil that’s specifically formulated for starting seeds. Seeds need just the right amount of moisture, warmth, and air to germinate, and these specialty soils are light enough to support fledgling root systems to give your plants a healthy start. Don’t use outdoor garden soil, as it’s far too dense and heavy for delicate root systems.

PLANTING TIPS
Fill your containers with the seed starting media. Then, using a spray bottle, mist to moisten the soil evenly. Sprinkle the seeds about 1/4″ apart on the soil surface and barely cover them with soil. Water with a very gentle spray. It’s important not to let the soil dry out before the seeds sprout. A plastic dome cover helps keep the soil surface moist without disturbing the seeds. (TIP: Young seedlings look pretty much the same until they begin to develop “true” leaves. Do yourself a favor and label the seed flats from the beginning. It’s also a good idea to include the date you planted the seeds.)

KEEP THINGS COZY
Seeds also need warmth to germinate. Most seeds will germinate at room temperature, but some warm-season crops like peppers prefer it warmer. A propagation heating mat underneath the seed tray will help with quicker germination, more seedlings, and greater uniformity. After the seeds have sprouted, take them off the heat mat, remove the dome cover, and put them under fluorescent grow lights to keep them from becoming spindly. You can also place your brand new seedlings in a sunny window if you have room.

POTTING UP
When your seedlings are a couple inches tall, you’ll want to thin them by removing some of them. Then gently dig the remaining seedlings out with a fork, so as not to harm the roots. Carefully transplant them into slightly larger containers, so they’ll have more room to grow. Don’t step them up to a too large container too soon though! Choose a container that’s about twice the size of the seed cells (a 3″– 4″ pot size usually works great). Always be sure any plastic containers you choose have drainage holes in the bottom. If the leaves fade to pale green or yellow, feed the seedlings with a water-soluble fertilizer when watering.

GET READY TO PLANT OUTDOORS
Your pampered indoor seedlings will need to be properly acclimated to their new outdoor life! Before transplanting outdoors, begin the process of “hardening off” your plants. On a warm spring day, move the seedling containers to a protected place (such as a porch) for just a few hours, then bring them back indoors. Each day gradually increase your fledgling plants’ exposure to the outdoor environment. After several days, transplant them to their final growing space in the garden.

Starting plants from seed can be a great way to get a jump on Colorado’s all-too-short growing season, and it can give you more choices in growing heirloom or hard-to-find varieties of veggies and flowers. More than that, it can evoke a sense of wonder to start from a dry seed and watch it grow into a big beautiful plant for your garden. Try it!